Anti-Roll bar link replacement?
#1
Anti-Roll bar link replacement?
My 99 A6 1.8T is making an intermittent (but increasingly frequent) creaking and clunking noise from the front end. I've had a good look around the front suspension and it seems to me that the RH side anti-roll bar link is due replacement:
Click to enlarge
The LH side ARB link was replaced approximately 2 years ago so I suspect it's time to get this one done. I have 2 questions:
1. Do you all think that this could be causing the noises I'm hearing or is it completely unrelated?
2. To change the ARB link I think I have to do the following:
Thanks in anticipation....
Click to enlarge
The LH side ARB link was replaced approximately 2 years ago so I suspect it's time to get this one done. I have 2 questions:
1. Do you all think that this could be causing the noises I'm hearing or is it completely unrelated?
2. To change the ARB link I think I have to do the following:
a. Raise the front of the car on ramps (to keep the suspension loaded. I've researched other Audi ARB replacements guides and understand that if you don't do this it's very difficult to remove the bolts and almost impossible to fit the new ARB link since the ARB will be twisted. i.e. resisting roll I've also read that the bolts need to be torqued whilst the suspension is loaded)
b. Remove the old ARB link and reinstall new one with new bolts
c. Torque the bolts to ???
Could someone confirm that I have the install procedure correct and also advise the torque setting for the ARB bolts?b. Remove the old ARB link and reinstall new one with new bolts
c. Torque the bolts to ???
Thanks in anticipation....
#2
2c) For my '95 is listed as:
I doubt you have a different torque spec. 48 ft lb is quite tight.
1) I have a bad sway bar link in my Elantra (just figured it out when replaced the exhaust) and the clunking noise is pretty bad. It occurs only when going over bumps, potholes, etc. On even asphalt is quiet.
I had the noise for years without knowing what causes it, and when I used to take the car to the dealer (until 2 yrs back - car still under warranty) they always said there's nothing wrong with the car.
Just ordered the parts to change all four links (front and back), but anyway....yes, I would think the clunking noise could definitely be related to the bad link.
9 - Self-locking nut
Always replace
65 Nm (48 ft lb)
Always replace
65 Nm (48 ft lb)
1) I have a bad sway bar link in my Elantra (just figured it out when replaced the exhaust) and the clunking noise is pretty bad. It occurs only when going over bumps, potholes, etc. On even asphalt is quiet.
I had the noise for years without knowing what causes it, and when I used to take the car to the dealer (until 2 yrs back - car still under warranty) they always said there's nothing wrong with the car.
Just ordered the parts to change all four links (front and back), but anyway....yes, I would think the clunking noise could definitely be related to the bad link.
Last edited by chefro; 08-18-2009 at 12:10 PM.
#3
The procedure outlined is mostly correct, although I have found with the A6 you CAN twist the sway bar enough by hand to get the end links bolts in place with one side one the ground and the other in the air. That's not saying good things about the sway bar!
About the time the end links go, the control arms go as well and they can cause the same noise.
Bob
About the time the end links go, the control arms go as well and they can cause the same noise.
Bob
#4
Thanks Chefro & Bob for commenting. I think I may have found the torque figures at the bottom of the Front Control Arm Replacement article on this page: http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel.html Quote:
Sway bar end link;
Lower connection to the sway bar; 100 Nm
Upper connection into the control arm; 40 Nm + 1/4 turn
Hopefully I'll be getting around to this job at the weekend so I'll post an update soon after.
Lower connection to the sway bar; 100 Nm
Upper connection into the control arm; 40 Nm + 1/4 turn
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