Hi folks.

Short story is AWE installed VAST’s auxiliary oil cooler in my 2005 Allroad (2.7T, manual 6) around the New Year here in Philly -- this and some other work listed below. The surprising overall affect has been increased oil temps – up from the normal 195/200F to ~220F.

Strangely the car now runs at this hotter temp whether I drive like a granny or push the car hard. Once the car comes up to temp it is always just below 225 whereas it used to be just under 200.

Can you forum pros offer any suggestions to get me back to normal temps? (BTW: VAST and AWE have been excellent and responsive, but some tips from the boards are in order on this one.)

Many thanks!

- Rob


*** More details below by way of background ***


List of work done on the car by AWE: (Voss and team were excellent.)
• VAST oil cooler, ARD bi-pipes, timing belt kit, fan kit, light weight pulleys, sway bars, end links, AWE’s drive-train-stablizer, and GIAC performance chip (93 “pump” -- not “race”). I don’t know what the standard PSI increase is with GIAC but can find out if necessary.


More about the car, the problem, the tune, and driving conditions:
• 2005 Allroad 2.7T manual 6speed; 67k miles
• The high temp is observed on the Oil temp gauge – not the water temp gauge.
• The cooling element (radiator) is mounted on the front of the car just behind the bumper. About 1/3 of the surface area is within eye-site when standing in front of the car so there is direct air flow.
• Cooler is flush up against the AC’s radiator (in front of water cooler).
• All fluid levels have been checked and are correct.
• High-speed fan unit is working.
• This is a GIAC 93 octane tune on my 2.7T (K03s)
• My commute is about 15 miles (20-40 min)
• When I first got the car back the outside temps were 30-50 degrees. Now mid-summer they are 80-90. The elevated oil temps have been uniformly higher regardless of the climate - ~220.
• Increased temps occur both in “pump” boost mode AND “stock” mode.


Which of the following might be a possible solution for me?
• A larger cooling element (radiator)?
• A fan mounted on the cooler?
• Swapping the oil temp sensor for the oil pan to make sure the sensor is not the issue…
• A different thermostatic sandwich plate – one that opens at a lower temp than my current 180?


Quotes from VAST: (Prince and Jason were supper helpful and responsive.)
• “Flow is enabled [in the cooler] with the thermostatic sandwich plate that resides between the oil filter and water cooled oil cooler. It's an internal bypass to send oil through the hydraulic line running to the cooler and then back to the sandwich plate. This plate has an internal gate that allows flow around 180 deg F.”
• “This is a good cooler for anyone on the street or track. Continuous temps of 240 are a bit high for the street, although common in some cars (BMW). Temps in the 250's-260's continuously are not ideal. We typically shoot for temps between 210-225 for everyday use.”
• “We highly recommend the cooler for all 2.7T's, in general, especially in outside air temps above 80degF. …I do not think your car is in harm's way whatsoever and if you want to experiment with bypassing the oil cooler, go for it. Purchasing that ~$60 sensor for the oil pan could be beneficial for his knowledge/testing, just to rule out any faulty signals.”


Quotes from AWE Tuning:
• “Even if the thermostat did not open or the cooler was clogged, the oil will still flow through the oil filter like normal and everything should be like it was not even there. These are usually designed to still allow normal flow even if there is a problem with the cooler… The software allows more power so if you are driving it harder, that will create more heat but under normal conditions it should make no difference.”

 

I know it is kind of distracting when your car isn't working like you think it should but I'm pretty sure that you are fine. My 2.7 T is pretty stock and my oil operating temps are always right around 225 when its warmed up. Occasionally, on long trips during the summer, temps approach 250 but never quite get there. I would think that you would want your oil temps to run above 212 to boil off any condensation (water) contamination that would be in your oil.

Not sure what ideal specs are for oil temps but I wouldn't be worried about anything under 250.

also looking forward to what other folks have to say

 

190k on the odo and it has always run 225-240o regardless of outside temperature. Running it hard at high speed (80+) in hotter weather, it may approach 250 but I don't think I have ever hit it. (Maybe once after running 90-100+ for 10 miles.) The water temp always sits dead center, although this weekend sitting in traffic in 92o weather it went a half needle width right. I've had two TB jobs and the antifreeze is fresh; I always use Mobil1 0W-40.

 

Its the design you purchased. You removed a perfectly good oil cooler and replaced it with another type that acts somewhat differently. Use synthetic and don't worry about it.

Bob

 

OK; I feel better. Good to hear from you all.

I thought I was doing the right thing to get the oil cooler if I was going to chip and drive the car harder. Guess that may have been overkill, but it's good to know the temps are not at all unusual.

Thanks so much and happy driving.

Rob