That's the correct manual. Good luck.

 

I did use indeed the Bentley manual - the one in the link should be the right one for your year model, as Andy already pointed out.
I also used (double checking purpose) the various timing belt or engine-related writeups available on audiworld.com or 12v.org.
And +1 yes, you do need a torque wrench, which is about $ 20-25 nowadays.
After completing whatever engine work you're set up to do, probably you'll gain more self restraint in relationship to redlining it.

 

well its been over a week now (8 days to be exact) still havent started couldnt get the car cus i thought of having friends tow it with a wanna be flatbed lol or in other words one of those wooden ones they use to haul motorcycles and lawnmowers. any way that didnt work. so to stop being stengy im going to pay AAA tommorow and finaly get the car here.
meanwhile i got the repair manual and being a microsoft hater i refused to boot it on one of my laptops or even emulate it lol so i got an old p4 machine from a friend booted xp on that installed it on there and im using remote desktop with my laptop. it came out good (now i have a dedicated computer for my audi)


and while im at it with picture thought ill share this mess lol the one in the red circle is the xp for the audi


@chefro wish i knew where you found a good torque wrench for $25. they run around $75 at homedepot, and online the good ones i found ran around $50 or so (i think ill get one for full price from homedepot because i can always return it if i decide to get something else). and yea i probably would gain more restraint after fixing it... but knowing my self it will be short lived
but im looking at this whole experience as a chance to learn so i wouldnt mind fixing things again (as long as i get at least a week of clean driving before i mess something up again)

 

***Wal Mart - $ 25
-
***AutoZone - Baltimore - $ 29.99
5316 YORK RD
BALTIMORE, MD 21212
(410) 464-9110


* I have no idea where in Baltimore you live, but that was for example purposes

 

If you take a 171,000 mile vehicle and red line it, your certainly going to knock a few globs of gunk loose.
They will certainly find their way to the Audi valve train oil system and restrict the flow.

PS if your going to do it again -please let me know so I can be someplace else. I hate seeing old Audi's balled up and their drivers looking like hamburger!

PPS Yea I'm back for a visit.. Still trying to find time to make a list of Audi stuff that is in the garage.

 

If I were you, I'd pony up for a decent torque wrench and a cheap-o from walmart or autozone. You wouldn't want the detent to malfunction and crack a bearing cap because they are tough to find. I'd recommend the $75 crafstman from sears or online. Make sure you turn the dial back to 0 when you stop for the night or when you're all done. Otherwise you'll stress the detent, bring it out of calibration or damage it.

 

Also, you can go even bigger and buy some real tool brands like
Stahlwille or Elora.
Why settle for made-in-China Sears wrenches, when you can pony up for something much better?

 

Here's some more variety from a more trusted source

Disclaimer:
For the engine work that's documented in this forum, I used with much success and problem/trouble-free a $ 25 (made in China) - at the time was $ 29.99 - T W bought at WalMart.
Buy one at your own risk or go with a Craftsman one, since they're the "standard" of cheap ones.

 

holy crap thats alot of wrenches
i will probably be buying one of the brand names or the craftsman or husky ones dont know yet. but as of now i got the front bumper off and put the lock carrier into service position(i got a nice shower of windshield juice while doing the front bumper). i want to take te lock carrier off but im late to class right now and dirty as hell lol. i had some qustions and some pictures too but my brain froze so ill probably upload the pictures when i get back and remember what i was going to ask

 

so here we go:

she is jacked up so high looks like an allroad


couldnt wait another day for my friend to get jack stands so gamble it is


my cv boot is crying for attention


dont know if i should of done this but i was scared of things getting in there is it safe to leave this towels in there till i finish taking the tb apart?


turns out its impossible to get the 3 bolts on the inside of the bumper on the passenger side without taking the wheelhousing liner out


i used long screwdrivers to hold the lock carrier in place until tommorow


2 months ago or so i had cel codes that i was told had to do with my secondary air pump (or is it called smog pump?) and i have to change it well since im taking everything apart i thought ill take it out and see if there is anyway to fix it before i go and spend more money. took this pic of it


anyone ever fixed the pump? also if u see in the pic there is 3 rusty bolts onthe outside and 3 white bolts inside should i take all of them off or just the outside ones? (it felt like the inside ones might be a part of the pump itself?)

also the repair manual says there is some special tool/bolt(support tool 3369) that goes into this place when u unbolt the absorbers since i didnt have it i just stuck a screw driver in there but i see no reason for it its pretty much useless so i dont know if i should of got that bolt or what does it do?
(i know i stuck it in the wrong hole i fixed it after the picture but its not realy holding anything anyway)


lastly to take the viscous fan off it says i need a spanner wrench 3212 and a 3312 open-end spanner, is there any way to get it out with normal tools instead of those special tools? any ideas?