2002 A6 3.0 Quattro with 83K. Had left front CV boot kit replaced at 53K. Had tires rotated a few days ago and installer said I have a torn outer CV boot on the passenger side. I've seen boot kits for $40, however I'm guessing it's best to replace the front axle with both boots installed any ready to go. Cheapest price I got was $115 to a high of $176. Labor is around $250. From previous threads I'm guessing these numbers are in line. Final thought is "Is an alignment necessary after install ?" Thanks to all..........

 

You don't need to replace the whole thing unless the boot is completely cracked and has no grease in it. If it's still good not clicking and grease is not seeping out.Then buy a boot kit, $16 from www.blauparts.com and a tub of valvoline CV joint grease is like $7 use a lot of grease in there. Or ask the mechanic to.

Yes , you will need an alignment! anytime you mess with the front end you need one.

Here's some links If it's too late;

I would probably go with blauparts I have had good luck with them and when it comes to aftermarket CV joints I don't trust any so for me it would be the cheapest or OEM.
But maybe someone has had some good experience with some of these.

http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....od=F4A1026%2DB

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-C5_A6-...in/Driveshaft/

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...joint_kit.html

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...6%20Boot%20Kit

OEM;
http://www.primepartssuperstore.com/...layCatalogid=0

 

I am getting ready to replace both outer CV joints on my 2001 2.7t. Can you explain why the front end needs to be aligned after this procedure? I'm awaiting my Bently manual, so not sure on the entire procedure yet, but does it require removal of tie rods or other items that affect steering geometry? Thanks.

 

IF I have a damaged boot I usually go to Autozone or Force Five and get a rebuilt axle assembly. That way I get new inner and outer boots. I have had no problems with CV joints.

As for the alignment. It is not necessary - even if you pop off a ball joint as long as you do not mess with any of the adjustments, but it is a good excuse to get the alignmet checked.

 

That's what i figured, as long as I don't change any of the adjustments, should be good to go. Am just replacing the outers, but I see your point on replacing the entire axle. Hopefully the outers won't fight me too bad.

 

Jackmup,

I do no see one, but do you know of where I can grab a DIY for a boot replacement?

 

It is one on AudiWorld.com.

 

I just had outer axle boots replaced two weeks ago (150k on the car). Parts were $104 plus 2.5 hours labor (total ~$300). I asked if I need a re-alignment and the answer was "no"....everything was marked and reinstalled the same. The left boot was ripped open and grease was all over the wheel and frame -- the right boot was intact but badly cracked so we also changed that as a precaution. This was the first "major" repair in over two years other than oil changes and tires.

 

As long as you only remove the top two control arms and nothing else as per Bentley, You do not need to realign.


twinturbosixer
I don't have one off hand but this might help.
http://www.relitech.com/cvjoints.htm

The boot is the same as replacing the whole thing and the hardest part is cleaning the CV joint. because you can't see it when it comes apart do to all of the grease, which makes reassembling it a pita if you don't know how it goes together.

Very basically you remove the center bolt with the wheel on the ground and the deco center cap on the rim removed.
DO NOT REUSE THE BOLT For reassembly it is a single use bolt-torque to yield

jack it up and remove the tire.

remove the caliper and rotor and dust cover , have something like a milk crate ready to hold the caliper, don't let it dangle. unbolt the wheel speed sensor and pull it out of the housing.

completely remove the bolt holding the upper arms to the housing. remove both arms.

axle will slide out of housing push the housing out of the way and maneuver it out.

I shoved an old socket in the axle bolt hole and ran the old bolt in to push the CV joint off the axle.

now there are two washers on the axle metal and plastic note their position. Metal goes in with the larger side facing out, plastic on the out side and there is a cirlip on the axle itself.

once it is out before you disassemble anything wipe off as much grease as you can so you see how it comes apart.
Take some pictures if your not completely covered in grease.

clean the CV joint, reassemble and pack with CV JOINT GREASE I used valvoline in a tub $7.00

Build a cone of grease on top of the cv joint before installing the boot.

Reinstall the joint on the axle and back into the housing.

tighten the new bolt if it M14-115NM, M16 is 190NM then

you can unclip the boot clamps and put them on after if you want or slide them on before. doesn't matter. before crimping them slide a screw driver into the boot and let air in there it may have a vacuum from the reassembly and you don't want to suck in any crap that's for sure.

Crimp the clamps with the tool, on the helpful tool rack at any auto store will have one. or you might have some thing in your box that will get the job done.

once the tire is back on the ground torque the bolt an additional 180 degree turn (1/2 turn) after that.

If you haven't done one before keep looking for a DIY or get the Bentley manual. Once you get through one the others are a messy breeze.

FYI make sure the dust cover does not even come close to scraping the rotor. It bends easily and I knocked mine into the rotor makes a wonderful grinding noise.

Wear old clothes, be ready with an army of rags, degreaser, old brush and a bucket or pan to degrease in.