CV Boot Question
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,227
From: New York
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,430
From: Goodrich, Michigan
The bolt should have come with the kit, BUT you can reuse yours. After all, they don't come with control arm or bearing kits...
While jackmup recommends going in via the top control arms, be aware that the upper control arm pinch bolt will often corrode into place requiring hours of frustration to drill out. Going via the bottom avoids this potential frustration. And, having done this job both ways, I recommend removing the axle and dealing with the CV joint removal on the bench. Perhaps I haven't learned the secret touch to getting the CV joint off while on the car, but I spent 4 hours on the bitch on the car and five minutes on the one off the car.
YRMV!
Good luck!
Bob
While jackmup recommends going in via the top control arms, be aware that the upper control arm pinch bolt will often corrode into place requiring hours of frustration to drill out. Going via the bottom avoids this potential frustration. And, having done this job both ways, I recommend removing the axle and dealing with the CV joint removal on the bench. Perhaps I haven't learned the secret touch to getting the CV joint off while on the car, but I spent 4 hours on the bitch on the car and five minutes on the one off the car.
YRMV!
Good luck!
Bob
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 517
From:
The CV joint kit should come with the new axle bolt, circlip, boot, two bands, grease and a few more parts. You will need to buy a CV joint band pliers.
Some of the boot kits do not have enough grease or parts.
The axle bolt should be loosened and tightened with the wheels on the ground, per Bentley.
The car should not be moved once the axle bolt is removed, per Bentley.
Some of the boot kits do not have enough grease or parts.
The axle bolt should be loosened and tightened with the wheels on the ground, per Bentley.
The car should not be moved once the axle bolt is removed, per Bentley.
Last edited by a6hcw; Oct 23, 2009 at 10:22 PM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,227
From: New York
I have heard those bolts are a bitch. So keep in mind I'm in Florida with two Florida cars. These cars have not experienced road salt. So all my bolts come right out. I just did my control arms and not one bolt was frozen. So if that is the case Bob's way might be the easier way. Your going to have to print this stuff out and figure out the best way when you get in there.
spray them down with Liquid wrench a week in advance.
spray them down with Liquid wrench a week in advance.
Last edited by Jackmup; Oct 24, 2009 at 12:16 AM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,430
From: Goodrich, Michigan
2.5 hours per the book. So at $75 an hour, $200 or so is a fair price.
Keep in mind those are after tax dollars. Depending on your tax bracket, you would need to earn $250 to $300 or more to pay someone else to do this repair. How long does it take you to earn this amount of money? Chances are you can "earn" this in less time (and "learn" something in the process) by doing the job yourself. And, Autozone and etc. all loan tools so there are very few you would actually need to buy.
Bob
Keep in mind those are after tax dollars. Depending on your tax bracket, you would need to earn $250 to $300 or more to pay someone else to do this repair. How long does it take you to earn this amount of money? Chances are you can "earn" this in less time (and "learn" something in the process) by doing the job yourself. And, Autozone and etc. all loan tools so there are very few you would actually need to buy.
Bob
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