My Car actually DOES have all the same symtoms taht gmatov's car had. warm when driving (after a lengthy warm-UP) blow's cold when at idle. I'm thinking thermostat. The water pump was replaced when the T-belt service was done.

Unfortunately now I'm reading that it is essentially another T-belt service procedure now to get the T-stat replaced. NO? is there a "way" to do the t-stat without ripping the front of the car off to do it?

I'm sure it's really slick how it's integrated into audi's systems but the t-stat on my 63 lincoln could be done in about 15minutes with a bucket and 2 wrenches...

Any thoughts or advice? I'm a die hard DIY'r (read: Cheapskate) so I'd probably be doing this in my garage... unless Audi figures they can do it in a matter of an hour or 2...

HELP!

 

Meatball and George –Your confusing the hell out of me but that won't stop me from posting LOL.

No heat when moving is caused when the thermostat is stuck open, the radiator gets lots of air, and the WP is working efficiently. I.e. the vehicle is moving at a reasonable speed.

But if you add that there is too much heat (motor overheats) when the same vehicle is idling I’d strongly suggest that the radiator is partially plugged. The WP is rotating slowly with low pressure thus it can’t overcome the restriction. The plug acts like a thermostat that doesn’t open. If it were the summer I’d say that the supplemental radiator fan wasn’t working.

If the air inside the vehicle stays cool or cold during all this I’d add that the heater core is also plugged, and think that someone didn’t use the correct antifreeze.

 

you might have mis-read what I just wrote. cabin heat only gets WARM (not HOT) when driving at about highway speeds. When I slow down or stop for any amount of time, the heater starts blowing cold...

So... Thermostat... stuck open I think. and If after that, there is still a problem, I'll be flushing the heater core... and then if that don't work, looking into replacing the core...

 

NH,

I sure as hell don't mean to confuse you.

Let me tell you just what is what, in my case.

1. My engine blew up after 500 miles, car had 109,000 on it. TB was still intact, tensioner split and caused a jump, so 12 valves, 7 buckets shot.

2. Warranty company paid to replace the engine, and while it was out the mechs did as I asked and flushed the heater core.

Mind, before the engine blew, a week or so after I bought it, it got cool in the evening. I put on the heater, and it blew cold.

3. AFTER the engine was replaced, and the core flushed, NO HEAT. Went to my boneyard, Audi lovers, their mech put a Vac pump on the valve, pumped, and told me it was opening. Hokay. Went to the office to print some schematics, time we got back, it was, idling, blowing coolant all over the place.

I know even the most diehard Audi fanatics will not say you gotta live with Audis overheating when they idle. That is stupid. I think there are probably more Audis in California where they spend hours going 2 miles in gridlock, if the cars overheat and lockup and die, they will buy Jags or something.

ANYHOW. After that mech sucked on the valve, when I got moving, water pump working, as today, I have heat, so long as I am either moving, or revving the engine at a long stop light.

I have not allowed it to idle while not moving long enough to know if it is still boiling over from idling. THIS indicates to me that it is not moving water. My fans do not come on, so the rad temp sensor, if there is one, does not tell it to run the rad fan.

I think that is an indication I am not pumping water, as if I turn on the air, THAT fan does come on.

I really gotta get that program running. I am tired of hearing some of you tell me it "CAN'T BE!!" It IS!

Cheers,

George

Hey, I don't know how many of you are "real" Auditechs" and how many others are wannabes, you've had one for 2 years. I've been driving them for near 25years.

I admit I can't fix them anymore. They are too complicated. Mechanically, they are not ALL that much more complicated. Axles can be replaced, brakes, the like. Others, if you can't turn a wrench, can't figure stuff out, you gotta go to the "STEALER".

 

Meatball,

I can just about guarantee you that you will pay AT LEAST 500 to replace the heater core.

You guys, where you are, simply seem to accept whatever you are told, and pay for it.

I simply do not understand such as you.

I am having the engine replaced in my daughter's Toyota. I asked for a PRICE, give me HOW MUCH IT WILL COST. It will cost "THIS" much, period.

Hokay. Don't **** me over with well we had to do this, we had to do that, and it is double what we told you.

Ah, well,

Cheers,

George