I am working on the rear pads. The hex wrenches needed to take the caliper off are 13mm and 15mm. I had to try a couple different 15mm wrenches to find one thin enough to slip in to hold the inside "nut" from turning while turning the outside bolt. The reason you can't just pry or squeeze the piston in like normally is that the hand brake self adjusts with a threaded mechanism inside the caliper as the pads wear out. Don't try to squeeze it to hard without turning the piston, or you might break something. The channel locks and C-clamp method worked great! Be careful not to damage the rubber caliper piston seal with the channel locks. The piston has to go in pretty far to clear the new pads.

I didn't bleed the system, but once the calipers were fully compressed, I did suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir and filled it with new super blue. That is what I have seen them do at dealerships. It should replace 90% of the fluid.

I was able to slip the rotor out without taking the bottom half of the caliper off.