I have a 2000 A6 Avant 2.8l, it has 155,000 but runs like new, can't hear the engine run. The timing belt was changed at 154,000 (just changed) and the propshaft seal was changed about 5k ago both at the dealer.

I was pulling away from a stop sign today and it was like someone tapped me from behind and then nothing. When I put it in D the speedo goes up to 40mph and I get some clicking, I have to put it in N then wait for the speed to go down before I put in in P otherwise, it clicks until it stops. BUT if I put it in P it will still roll, the only way to stop the car is to put the E-brake on.
When it initially happend all the gear indicators on the dash lit up P-1 but later went out.

If this is a blown tranny is the cost just to prohibitive to have it repaired. Even though it is in perfect condition I can't imagine it's worth more than 5-6K. It's a shame because it still drives so nice on the road. What's a new tranny run??

I secretly believe it got jealous because I went and looked at some 2007 A6 Avants.

 

Have you ever changed the ATF? Perhaps you have been driving around without enough ATF.
You should not put the car into Park until the car is stopped.
If cars were alive, they might run away looking for badly needed ATF.

 

Replacement tranny from a dealer the stealer will run you around 6 to 7K by the time that you are out the door. You can probably find a rebuilt tranny for 2 to 3K and have it installed for another grand or so at a reputable shop. Or you can have a reputable tranny shop rebuild yours.

 

you have a broken drive shaft, axel whatever you call them.

If your tranny was shot, your car would still hold in Park, but if a axel is broken, your car is always in Neutral, not really, but it works out that way.

So relax, axels are cheap, especially compared to a tranny (and not the hooker type)

Oh, and welcome to the forums. I could imagine your terror, but I am confident it is a broken axel. If your handy, they are easy to change.

 

Thanks Jeffla.
You are correct. I took it to an local shop and that was the problem. $560ish, that I can deal with. I was willing to pay up to 2K to fix it because it just is such a nice car to drive.
I'm just baffled has to why if it is all-wheel drive why would it send all the power to the wheel that is spinning?? Makes no sense for traction...and this is amazing in the snow.
I was really going to be bummed because I think the car still has some life in it.

 

155K is just a baby -- you have at least another 100K left LOL

as for the axel problem - it was most likely a CV joint -

There are differentials in the drive train that allow the wheels to rotate at different speeds. (WOW A Differential that allows the wheels to rotate at different speeds! - Isn't the English language amazing?) The only way an all-wheel drive will drive with one axle broken is if it has locked (or limited slip) differentials but - believe me - that would be really uncomfortable on the street.

 

The A6 has a Torsen limited slip differential in the center diff but the one problem with a Torsen style diff is that if one wheel is off the ground (or, in this case, an axle is broken) it doesn't work. And with the sensors for the electronic limited slip out at the wheels, the electronics never picked up the need to limit the slip, thereby strading you. This is the one case where old fashioned mechanical limited slips would have saved you.

But, glad to hear it was only an axle.

Bob

 

So that's why my Audi dosen't work when I'm flying thru the air..

Good thing to know!

 

It is very odd that an axle would fail without any warning noise. Perhaps, the circlip which holds the outer CV joint to the axle failed. The circlip is deformed and destroyed when the outer CV joint is removed from the axle to replace a damaged boot. A new circlip must always be used. A boken circlip would alow the axle to come out of the outer CV joint.