Not Starting And Low Idle
#1
Not Starting And Low Idle
Now this is a weird issue, I had to do a lot of driving over the past few days without any issues. Well yesterday I went to start my car, and well quite simply put wouldn't start. The starter works, and after a few minutes the car finally starts. However it idled very low and stalled out ( it's an automatic). Again I start it up and if I tap the gas it stalls as well. the idle a cold start is normally 1200 for a minute or two and drops to 900 but it idled at 900 when I finally got it started. I checked it with a scanner and no codes, no cel, but my coolant reads at 236 degrees. My coolant levels were low so I topped them off thinking it may solve the issue, but it didn't and I'm pretty sure it's not my thermostat or water pump as I replaced those two years ago when I did my timing belt. It's an 04 A6 2.7t S- Line
#3
Plugs were replaced 15000 ago. the car has 127 k on the odometer so it could be the wires or coil packs, which have never been replaced . but the idle was staying at a constant 900 no real fluctuations.
#6
Green one is like $12 and they carry it Advanced Auto. The Blue one runs about $40 or so.
If I remember correctly you'll need the blue one if your OEM connector is square and the green one if your OEM version has the oval-ish shape to it.
The blue one may have a blue connector plugging into it as well, I use the green one and my connector was black.
(Credit to "Justin" for the photos)
#8
Yeah, but it depends on if you need the blue sensor or the green one.
Green one is like $12 and they carry it Advanced Auto. The Blue one runs about $40 or so.
If I remember correctly you'll need the blue one if your OEM connector is square and the green one if your OEM version has the oval-ish shape to it.
The blue one may have a blue connector plugging into it as well, I use the green one and my connector was black.
(Credit to "Justin" for the photos)
Green one is like $12 and they carry it Advanced Auto. The Blue one runs about $40 or so.
If I remember correctly you'll need the blue one if your OEM connector is square and the green one if your OEM version has the oval-ish shape to it.
The blue one may have a blue connector plugging into it as well, I use the green one and my connector was black.
(Credit to "Justin" for the photos)
#9
It was the sensor. Little bugger is buried underneath the stupid intake flex-pipe though. Almost took the coolant resevoir off trying to find it, that would have been interesting. I didn't secure it fully, so on a test drive after the repair it popped out *woops*. But once that was done it runs just fine if not better than before. I just never would have guessed that a coolant sensor would stop it from starting, or that the CEL wouldn't come on until the new one was in.
#10
It was the sensor. Little bugger is buried underneath the stupid intake flex-pipe though. Almost took the coolant resevoir off trying to find it, that would have been interesting. I didn't secure it fully, so on a test drive after the repair it popped out *woops*. But once that was done it runs just fine if not better than before. I just never would have guessed that a coolant sensor would stop it from starting, or that the CEL wouldn't come on until the new one was in.
Yeah, I didn't get mines fully secured on the first try either because of the O-ring, had to pull off the connector and force it down the with the handle of a screwdriver -- some Vaseline on the O-ring probably would have gotten it into place easier, but I didn't discover the Vaseline trick until I was having issues getting my upper coolant hose back onto the radiator.
As far as the no-start:
Testing the Jaguar Coolant Temperature Sensor
That page explains it pretty well.
Cold starts require more fuel.
Faulty Coolant Temp Sensor = ECU thinks car is warm already and doesn't supply enough fuel.
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Glad you got it sorted. The inexpensive fixes are the ones you gotta treasure on these damn cars, lol.
Last edited by OGBULLYLOCDAWG; 09-08-2013 at 02:07 AM.
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