Audi A6 The mid-sized Audi A6 model offers more room to the driver and passengers over the A4 line.

Something got loose after replacing rear shocks

Old Dec 27, 2009 | 04:35 PM
  #11  
Midniteoyl's Avatar
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From: Indiana
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^^ Thats should be ok to do and is what I always do.. I dunno man. Looking at you rear suspension, I dont really see where you could have run into trouble unless you didnt tighten while having the full wieght of the car on the jack or NOT turning that extra 1/4 turn. There are a couple of things to look for though, such as the upper pins facing inwards:

STRUT ASSEMBLY
NOTE: Check wheel alignment after servicing.


Removal
Raise and support vehicle. Remove caliper bolts. Remove stabilizer bar bracket at body. See Fig. 1 . Remove stabilizer bar upper link bolt. Remove upper control arm-to-wheel bearing housing bolt. Remove upper strut assembly bolts. Remove strut-to-lower control arm bolt. Push wheel bearing housing down and remove strut assembly.

Disassembly
Put strut assembly in tool. See Fig. 6 . Using spring compressor, compress strut spring until upper spring mount is free. Remove upper nut. Remove mounting bracket and damper ring. Remove spring compressor and spring.

Fig. 6: Compressing Strut Spring
Courtesy of AUDI OF AMERICA, INC.

Reassembly
To install, reverse disassembly procedure. Ensure spring ends are against rubber stops. Use NEW shock rod nut. Tighten fasteners to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Remove strut assembly from tool.

Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure pins on upper strut mount are toward outside of vehicle. Use NEW control arm and lower strut assembly bolts and nuts. Tighten fasteners to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application....................................... ............................Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
  • Brake Caliper Bolts (1) ..............................................22 (30)
  • Driveshaft-To-Differential Bolts ...................................41 (55)
  • Lower Control Arm-To-Wheel Bearing Housing Bolt (1) .....70 (95)
  • Lower Control Arm Inner Bushing Bolts (1) (2) ................52 (70)
  • Splash Shield Bolts .................................................. ..7 (10)
  • Outer Drive Axle Bolt (1) (2) .......................................85 (115)
  • Strut Assembly-To-Lower Control Arm Bolt (1) (2) ..........52 (70)
  • Strut Bracket-To-Body Bolt ........................................33 (45)
  • Strut Bracket-To-Strut Assembly Nut (1) ......................20 (27)
  • Subframe Bolts (1) (2) ..............................................81 (110)
  • Sway Bar Bracket Nut (1) ...........................................15 (20)
  • Sway Bar Link-To-Sway Bar Nut (1) ..............................37 (50)
  • Sway Bar Link-To-Wheel Bearing Housing Bolt .................37 (50)
  • Track Rod Inner End Nut (1) ........................................70 (95)
  • Track Rod Outer End Nut (1) .......................................70 (95)
  • Upper Control Arm Inner Bushing Bolts (1) ......................70 (95)
  • Upper Control Arm-To-Wheel Bearing Housing Bolt (1) (2) ..52 (70)
(1) Always use NEW bolts and all self-locking nuts.
(2) Tighten to specification plus 1/4 turn.
 
Old Dec 28, 2009 | 10:52 PM
  #12  
Jackmup's Avatar
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,227
From: New York
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I would loosen it up and put it on the ground or ramps and re-tighten everything you could be over-twisting a bushing.
they will only move so far.
 
Old Apr 6, 2010 | 12:17 PM
  #13  
zippy_gg's Avatar
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From: Winnetka, CA
Question

After 3 months of hyatus I am looking again at solving this issue.
What I discovered this past weekend is the following:
  • The car poor tracking was due to poor front tires inflation (the car sat for a while as I was driving my other vehicles)
  • When I press each rear corner of the car there is no strange sound or behavior, however when the car rebounds I hear that dreaded CLUNK (on each side, independently)
  • The springs are not broken, nor is the sway bar
  • There is no evidence of anything else broken
I am now suspecting my installation of the top nut on the sturt assembly (when I have the spring compressor on) may be the issue. I use an air tool but my compressor is on the wimpy side and I wonder if I tighten the top bolt correctly (tight enough). It is a tough one as there is no room for an open wrench to grab the bolt while I hold the shaft with an allen key.
Any thoughts?
 
Old Apr 6, 2010 | 03:26 PM
  #14  
hxgaser's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,980
From: Northern California
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Here are some information I found from the manual.

1. Spring ends, both top and bottom, must rest on the spring stops. Bottom stop should point to the middle of vehicle.
2. Bottom shock absorber bushing (the bottom bolt direction) must be parallel to the line created by the 2 upper mounting bolts.

One more reason to get a proper manual, not diy off the web...
 

Last edited by hxgaser; Apr 6, 2010 at 03:29 PM.
Old Apr 6, 2010 | 04:58 PM
  #15  
zippy_gg's Avatar
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From: Winnetka, CA
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Originally Posted by hxgaser
Here are some information I found from the manual.

1. Spring ends, both top and bottom, must rest on the spring stops. Bottom stop should point to the middle of vehicle.
2. Bottom shock absorber bushing (the bottom bolt direction) must be parallel to the line created by the 2 upper mounting bolts.

One more reason to get a proper manual, not diy off the web...
1. Check!
2. Check!
And I do have that garbage Bentley DVD crappy manual I really really hate (please, ask me how I feel about it. )
I am still puzzled...
 

Last edited by zippy_gg; Apr 6, 2010 at 07:21 PM.
Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:07 PM
  #16  
hxgaser's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,980
From: Northern California
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I have been doing some research on this since I am planning to do this soon. Anyways, one way that someone (I think it was midniteoyl) was to grind a side of the socket. Another was to use an O2 sensor wrench. I guess it is the same size.
 
Old Apr 6, 2010 | 08:16 PM
  #17  
zippy_gg's Avatar
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2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Winnetka, CA
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Hey, now that's a nice idea to use an O2 sensor wrench...!
 
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