Nah, the dealer has two special tools for alignments. One for shifting the camber side to side, and the other is a tool to set raised toe. We usually use neither of them. For camber i use a 4ft pry bar and i never set the raised toe. 99% of all dealerships do the same thing. The only thing raised toe does is keep the wheel stable if the wheel lifts off the ground. For instance going over a railroad track at 50+ mph your steering whee might turn on you a bit if its out. No one uses the stupid camber tool.
I will give you this though, they are a pain in the butt to align correctly if a tech doesn't have experience on an audi.

 

Auditech,

It's the side to side camber that is off on my car, but just a slight amount. I doubt the alignment tech at the Belle Tire here in Flint, Michigan has experience on anything not GM!

So, could this slight mis-adjusment cause the steering wheel to vibrate?

Bob

 

No way, most audis will have a little more negative camber towards the drivers side, its not always possible to equalize the camber perfectly, but it really doesn't affect the ride until its more than 2 degrees off to one side. Having camber to far to one side will just make your car pull one way or the other, it won't cause a vibration. 98% of vibrations are caused by a rotating componet. Wheels, tires, axles, brake rotors etc.

 

Update; I have the Meyle kit with enhanced tie rod ends ready to go. I also opted to do the subframe mounts because it is attached to the control arms or vice versa.
I am going to do the trany mounts as well because they are the only two left and I feel a little vibe in the seat.

Funny thing, the temp dropped here this week and the wobble has almost disappeared. Crazy. I can still feel it a wee little so I should be able to tell if this does it.

I was also reading a thread somewhere and the guy said he had "pulses" (maybe that means wobble IDK) but any way he pulled the wheel sensors and cleaned them really good. He say's problem solved-for him any way.

 

Tire PSI?

 

First thing I checked maybe 1 psi less if that. It could have to do with the tires breaking in, they have softened up. BTW the potenzas have a nicer ride than the michelins did.

 

Cool.. I never liked Michelins... Cant wait till mine wear out

 

Don't bother buying the sub frame mounts. I didn't look at the installation procedure. I only saw them on the parts break down and ordered them. The car needs to be on a lift for this. The entire sub frame needs to removed the old ones pressed out and new ones pressed in. Mine look OK I just though I would replace them because all the others went bad. They are just rubber bushings. Not liquid filled. I'm putting them on a shelf for some other day.

My wobble came back today-Fantastic. Just in time for the replacement. I didn't receive the Trans mounts. Stupid me I ordered them 2nd day five days ago instead of overnight.

Next weekend on those. probably better off to isolate the repairs and see whats causing this. I did notice when the wobble stops the trans mounts are shaking.

 

Installed both sides, went quick, 4 hours.

The front lower control arms in the kit were wrong, Ball joint shoulder is too large. I'll have to hatch that out with them now.

The hardest part was the bolt in the top forward arm. I had to cut the head off and pull it out because it was installed with the strut mount out. Then I just took a B.F. pry bar and pried the spring down while pushing in the bolt. Not too bad Just wish I had the correct front.

The top control arms have a lot of cracking in the bushings
But the bottom rear were the worst. the large bushing that is attached to the sub frame was bad I can move it by hand 1/16 of and inch with a bolt 1/4 in the new one doesn't budge. I hope that was it. I bring it in for an alignment tomorrow and I guess I'll do the front lowers and the trany mounts next weekend.

Oh and the jiggle is gone, That's got to be a good thing.

 

.....