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Timing belt change interval

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  #1  
Old 06-10-2009, 12:44 AM
gone postal's Avatar
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Location: Nation's oldest city, FL (screw you Jamestown)
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Default Timing belt change interval

I know manual says 105k, but we all know that w/ VAG cars, that's a game of Russian Roulette. My car is an '02 3.0 quattro w/ 59k on it. I've seen most people recommend 80k or 70k if you REALLY want to be safe. Should years affect this at all? It is a 7yr old car and only had 800 (yes, eight hundred) miles put on it in the last two years (Carfax AND autocheck confirmed - owned by elderly). I'm not sure if that's to my advantage or not. I'm kinda afraid the belt could have dry-rotted, etc from non-use? Is that possible? I REALLY don't want to do this job right now.
 
  #2  
Old 06-10-2009, 02:17 AM
Midniteoyl's Avatar
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Location: Indiana
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I'd go ahead a swap it out as soon as you have the time/cash. You prolly dont have to rush, but this summer would be good. Belts are silicon rubber (mostly) and they do dry out if not used. Just like tires. 400 miles a year is low, but it did get used... The other thing I'd worry about is dried seals and gaskets.

Damn good find btw
 
  #3  
Old 06-10-2009, 09:29 AM
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I totally agree, you need the peace of mind, and it is better to be able to do it on your own terms when you have the time. You have time so just plan it out at your leisure.

Timing belt,tensioner,rollers
water pump,thermostat
serpentine belt
valve cover gaskets / inspect cam lobes and lifters
cam shaft seals =4 (get from dealer)
cam bolt cover caps =4 (dealer)
crank seal PITA up to you if it's not leaking
change coolant, don't really have a choice
front snub mount foam engine mount (just slides in, POS)
replace all of your vacuum lines (20 bucks for braided oem from www.ecstuning.com)

If you do it all you won't have to go back in there for a while. www.blauparts.com has a kit also order the thermostat not inc. and they rent the tools you will need they also return the deposit.


READ THIS THREAD! info on 3.0 T-belt https://www.audiforums.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=130844

I just bought my 3.0 in Feb and went through it top to bottom. 113K

Timing belt job as fore mentioned

Replaced rear brakes and brake fluid

Cleaned front outer CV joints regreased and replaced boots.
They work the hardest so I figured I would take care of them the others I inspected the boots and are fine for now I'll get bored and do them in the fall.

Transmission service (you do not need one yet unless you notice a leak so look for leaks!)

front and rear final drive/diff gear oil.

Sea foamed, changed oil,filters,clean MAF sensor,

Cleaned pins with nail file and applied dielectric grease to every single electrical terminal.

Replaced Vac Lines - nice weekend morning JOB I wish they were all like that!

Replaced coilpacks, I would recommend you buy one coil pack and keep it on the shelf for when they go out.

Replace the sparkplugs with NGK Iridium BKR6EIX-11
put a dab of dielectric grease on top of each plug before pushing coils on.

Engine mounts, while your under the car locate them and look at the bottom if it looks as if there is a Little dried blood on the bottom that means your hydraulic fluid has leaked out and they are bad. Idle will vibrate car a little.

If you take care of all the rubber wear parts, belts,vac lines etc and stuff you know goes at 80K like the water pump you'll be in good shape for the long run. May have some sensors go but you won't be "waterboarded" by the other crap.
 
  #4  
Old 06-10-2009, 09:47 AM
Coors's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Philly, PA
Posts: 381
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^ wow! good info here!

Sticky!
 
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