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transmission pan hex screw dulling

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transmission pan hex screw dulling

  #1  
Old 05-03-2009, 01:29 PM
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Default transmission pan hex screw dulling

I was going to change my transmission filter but had to settle for just changing the oil as I some of the hex screws were dulled up and impossible to loosen at this point.
Im sure alot of mechs run into this problem. How do you go about remove these? i was thinking using my dremel to make a new thread.
any ideas? thank you
 
  #2  
Old 05-03-2009, 04:07 PM
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Were you able to remove them and the thread is dulled out, or you weren't able to remove them and the heads are dulled out?

You can use a dremel and cut a channel and try to remove them with a big flat head screwdriver (although that may be difficult).
Or use can use a slightly bigger bit (close-fitting) or wrench - whatever you have, and try to jam it in with a rubber mallet. However, you'll need a tamper proof tool if you go that route.
I had trouble with the drain plug on the tranny pan and I didn't have the right hex wrench; I tried to file down a bigger one, but it wasn't tamper proof so it twisted like a donut.
Sometimes hitting the bolt's head with a hammer helps.
As a last resort, you can also drill a hole in the bolt with an extractor.

When you remove'em, you can purchase new ones (I know...it sucks, cause AutoZone, O'Reillys, PepBoys, etc don't carry bolts like these). ECSTuning, ArizAutohaus, etc.
 
  #3  
Old 05-03-2009, 04:25 PM
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Thanks chefro once again. No I wasn't able to remove them. I decided to leave them alone and save the headache for another day.
 
  #4  
Old 05-03-2009, 10:10 PM
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Try spraying them with the flammable liquid wrench and take a center punch and tap them right in the middle a few times. Then let it sit over night. Spray and tap them again before you get started. Wiggle them back and forth as you take them out. For the bad heads get yourself a pair of small Visegrips try to grab the side of the head and then put the Torx in and turn all at the same time. You can probably pick up new Allens at Home depot cheap.

I wasn't alway from the Sunshine State where bolts don't rust
 
  #5  
Old 05-03-2009, 10:59 PM
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BTW, transmission pan screws are T27 torx bit, not allens...
 
  #6  
Old 05-04-2009, 01:30 PM
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I only said allens because Home Depot won't have torx.
 
  #7  
Old 05-04-2009, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by hxgaser View Post
BTW, transmission pan screws are T27 torx bit, not allens...

On my 1995 those would be the filter screws/bolts. The pan itself only has 4 regular 10-Metric nuts at the corners.
 
  #8  
Old 04-03-2015, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Jackmup View Post
I only said allens because Home Depot won't have torx.
Why did Audi think it was a good idea to use Torx bolts for the transmission pans, when they inevitably rust and end up as a head with a hole in the middle, needing heroic measures with Dremels or Vise Grips to remove. It seems the decision was made mainly for convenience of assembly.
I was all set to replace the filter, but seeing the silly condition of the bolts, decided to hold off and just did the drain and fill, because I surely wasn't going to reuse these. They may as well have used pop rivets to secure the pan, would have been easier to grind off.
Are there clearance issues that required the use of the internal Torx, instead of some run of the mill hex headed bolts?

What are the specifications for length, thread pitch and diameter for the pan bolts?
 
Attached Thumbnails transmission pan hex screw dulling-torxbolts.jpg  
  #9  
Old 04-04-2018, 11:20 PM
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Default Using penetrant

Originally Posted by wingerr View Post
Why did Audi think it was a good idea to use Torx bolts for the transmission pans, when they inevitably rust and end up as a head with a hole in the middle, needing heroic measures with Dremels or Vise Grips to remove. It seems the decision was made mainly for convenience of assembly.
I was all set to replace the filter, but seeing the silly condition of the bolts, decided to hold off and just did the drain and fill, because I surely wasn't going to reuse these. They may as well have used pop rivets to secure the pan, would have been easier to grind off.
Are there clearance issues that required the use of the internal Torx, instead of some run of the mill hex headed bolts?

What are the specifications for length, thread pitch and diameter for the pan bolts?


M6x20- thats the size on my b6 2002 a4 1.8t tiptronic. I just replaced my filter and fluid successfully. About taking the screws off, spray penetrating oil on the heads and the opposite end of the screw(MAKE SURE YOU LET It SOAK IN FOR A WHILE). Idk if i missed something idk what model you have but i noticed on mine the the screws stick out of the hole on the top side. This leaves it exposed and causes rust and it's the worst there since it actually gets into the threads, making it extremely tight. I stripped one of mine, ended up using a screw extractor, but even that wouldnt have worked without penetrating oil(i used liquid wrench). Use the plastic tube from a bottle of penetrating spray to get to the top side of the screw. I ended up spraying excess so the oil would flow onto the threads since it was such a tight space. It makes a whole world of difference. I actually ended up stripping it with the screw extractor too and had to move up a size on it, penetrant on the right spot was the only thing it needed. And if you strip it with t27, hammer in a t30. Also, you might need impact bits. My screws were so tight that my bits broke and the screw was still intact. I ended up buying an impact rated torx set from autozone, about $14, well worth it.
 

Last edited by agomes; 04-04-2018 at 11:31 PM.
  #10  
Old 04-04-2018, 11:51 PM
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2000 A6 2.7 Quattro; never did bother dropping the pan; still left it alone with just a drain and fill service.

It was such a corroded sight I didn't want to mess with it, and I'm sure it looks no better with 3 more years.
 
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