trouble pinpointing a coolant leak



(don't forget to remove the crank locking pin when you're all finished)
------
Take the tension off. Install the pin. Loosen the sprockets. Make sure they free spin. Then load the belt tension with the cam lock bar on. I don't quite remember whether it was 10Nm or 15Nm... Google is your best friend.
FYI, it will throw a code if is one or two teeth off.
FYI, it will throw a code if is one or two teeth off.
Like So:
I'm sorry to hear about the setback -- things happen, hopefully it isn't costly (bent valves and such..), but if it's off as little as you say.. that shouldn't be the case.
Time to disassemble the beast again -- hopefully all is well this go around.
Good luck
Last edited by OGBULLYLOCDAWG; Feb 6, 2012 at 11:55 AM.
It's not. That's what I'm saying. To get the bar on both cams I had to rotate the bar slightly...like maybe half centimeter. With the bar being 3 foot long or so, that makes for a tiny movement of the other sprocket.
However, it appears enough to give problems. So back apart. I think it'll go quicker this time. At least there's that.
However, it appears enough to give problems. So back apart. I think it'll go quicker this time. At least there's that.



(don't forget to remove the crank locking pin when you're all finished)
------
Like So:
2.7T cam gear spinning freely on the camshaft - YouTube
I'm sorry to hear about the setback -- things happen, hopefully it isn't costly (bent valves and such..), but if it's off as little as you say.. that shouldn't be the case.
Time to disassemble the beast again -- hopefully all is well this go around.
Good luck

I was able to turn the crank shaft freely by hand (well, wrench). Unless it jumped time or something, I should be good on the valves I think. I guess I'll find out when I get it apart again and see how off things are.
Yeah, I was hoping this post would be a success story.
Thanks. All the links you posted are broken. 
I was able to turn the crank shaft freely by hand (well, wrench). Unless it jumped time or something, I should be good on the valves I think. I guess I'll find out when I get it apart again and see how off things are.
Yeah, I was hoping this post would be a success story.

I was able to turn the crank shaft freely by hand (well, wrench). Unless it jumped time or something, I should be good on the valves I think. I guess I'll find out when I get it apart again and see how off things are.
Yeah, I was hoping this post would be a success story.

From searching:
P1545 Seems like you need a throttle body adaptation (if you disconnected the battery or removed the throttle-body at any point).
I think the '99 is drive-by-cable, so unfortunately, you would need a VAG-COM for the adaption.
https://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-a6-9/99-a6-2-8-avant-runs-like-$h-after-battery-change-116954/
Last edited by OGBULLYLOCDAWG; Feb 6, 2012 at 12:22 PM.
Ok, long night. I went through procedure several times until I thought I could get the bar on easily after some rotations. Rotated the engine several times and checked, and rechecked, and then checked again.
I got it back to running condition and fired it up. Idles smooth, but goosing the throttle is a bit rough. Holds higher rpm steady. I erased the codes and non reappeared. I'm going to pull the plugs tomorrow and probably pick up some new wires. Several of the holes was filled with oil and one of the plug wire boots has seen better days. It sat a while before I worked on it, so I guess it is possible some of that oil seeped into the combustion chamber and maybe fouled a plug? I don't know. I'll take a look.
The noise appears to be from the p/s pump. Not a healthy sound at all. I don't recall it making the noise before. The fluid was bubbly, so maybe some air got in it and it's not happy. I'll try and bleed it tomorrow.
Lastly, I have a lonely connector that has no mate. It comes from underneath the ABS unit and to that connector holder thing by the p/s reservoir. The connector at that location is a gray and purple two wire connector. From there it goes somewhere, but I can't find it. The two wires are white/red and brown. Since I didn't get any codes, I'm guessing it's not a emission sensor connector. Any ideas?
Thanks again for the help everyone.
I got it back to running condition and fired it up. Idles smooth, but goosing the throttle is a bit rough. Holds higher rpm steady. I erased the codes and non reappeared. I'm going to pull the plugs tomorrow and probably pick up some new wires. Several of the holes was filled with oil and one of the plug wire boots has seen better days. It sat a while before I worked on it, so I guess it is possible some of that oil seeped into the combustion chamber and maybe fouled a plug? I don't know. I'll take a look.
The noise appears to be from the p/s pump. Not a healthy sound at all. I don't recall it making the noise before. The fluid was bubbly, so maybe some air got in it and it's not happy. I'll try and bleed it tomorrow.
Lastly, I have a lonely connector that has no mate. It comes from underneath the ABS unit and to that connector holder thing by the p/s reservoir. The connector at that location is a gray and purple two wire connector. From there it goes somewhere, but I can't find it. The two wires are white/red and brown. Since I didn't get any codes, I'm guessing it's not a emission sensor connector. Any ideas?
Thanks again for the help everyone.
No, that one is plugged up. It's a two pronged connector. If you look down inside it there are some plastic pieces, one orange and one purple.
Pulled the plugs and they all looked ok. The spark plug boots on a couple of them are toast. I started it back up and got a lone po305 code. Does this correspond with cylinder 5 as labeled on the plug wires (middle drivers side) or the firing order? If the former that is the cylinder in which the boot is the worst.
Tried to bleed the p/s as well. Really, really noisy when turning the wheel. Appears to be full. I guess I'll check the hoses and make sure none of them are kinked or something.
Pulled the plugs and they all looked ok. The spark plug boots on a couple of them are toast. I started it back up and got a lone po305 code. Does this correspond with cylinder 5 as labeled on the plug wires (middle drivers side) or the firing order? If the former that is the cylinder in which the boot is the worst.
Tried to bleed the p/s as well. Really, really noisy when turning the wheel. Appears to be full. I guess I'll check the hoses and make sure none of them are kinked or something.
Success!!! She's together and purring like a kitten...and no leaks. It was the spark plug cables. I had the po301 and po305 codes again. I swapped the cables on cylinder 5 and 3 and the code po303 came up. Sooo, O'Reilly's got me a set today, got them in, and she ran like a champ.
I think I did a whole lot of extra work for nothing.
But I do have some new experience and a better understanding of my car. So it is what it is.
The p/s sounded awful, but after driving it a bit sounds like it used to. That was weird. It sounded really bad.
I still haven't found where that connector goes. Is there a diagram of some sort that I can reference those connectors that are grouped together by the p/s reservoir? If I can at least figure out what part of the circuit it belongs to, I might can find where it goes. I have yet to find anything not working.
Thanks again for wall the help!!!!
I think I did a whole lot of extra work for nothing.
But I do have some new experience and a better understanding of my car. So it is what it is. The p/s sounded awful, but after driving it a bit sounds like it used to. That was weird. It sounded really bad.
I still haven't found where that connector goes. Is there a diagram of some sort that I can reference those connectors that are grouped together by the p/s reservoir? If I can at least figure out what part of the circuit it belongs to, I might can find where it goes. I have yet to find anything not working.
Thanks again for wall the help!!!!


