Hello there! I would like some help on my recent purchase of an Audi A8 2000 model

1. I have no records of when the timing belt was changed. Only a verbal conformation from the dealer that it was changed at about 90K. has about 105K currently.

2. No record of when the engine oil was changed. The engine oil looks a dark brown and has some debri on the dip stick. How much does it cost to change the engine oil and get the engine flushed?

3. The red liquid is slightly below the minimum line. Is the red liquid coolent fluid?

4. The engine however purs like a kitty...OMG and the acceleration is amazing. Sadly the dealer failed to provide me with a manual for the A8 as of yet. What do I do? Do any one of you have an A8 manual running around looking for a home in my dash board? :-)

5. The breaks makes his groaning noise when i use it to park or go slowly.

6. the rev dial is pretty stable but i have been looking at it hella closely and i can see it shifting ever so slightly up and down in idle...everrr so slightly.

7. I am very ****...in case u were wondering type A personality. I really appreciate the people who answers me. Itll be a great help. I am kind of dull in cars but i hoping to learn everything from you guys :-)

Let me know here or on email

shams.i.arefin@gmail.com

Yours, Shams.

 

I have a 2000 A8L that I recently purchased in March of 06. The one most important thing to do is if you plan on working on it get a Bentley Publishers (Bentleypublishers.com)repair CD for it. It is the most valuable thing you can do other than searching on AudiForums.com, AudiWorld.com and AudiPages.com for information.

I have done numerous repairs myself - oil change twice, replace fog light bulbs, high beam headlight bulbs, turn signal bulbs, fan belt, power steering fluid, coolant , thermostat , spark plugs, rear brake pads, left headlight washer, right front passenger seat belt assembly, checked and filled all differential fluids, rotated tires, replaced wiper blades, fix the cigarette lighter and replace bulbs on the interior. Almost all the repairs have been just preventative or to upgrade to better products.

1-If it was changed have them get records - you do not want a timing belt to break - engine is destroyed if so

2-You can have it changed for about $50 to $75, would not flush it with any type of cleaner, maybe just change the fluid a couple of times sooner than normal and have some oil samples sent off to be analyzed to check for any potential problems.

3-The redish liquid in the drivers side back corner is coolant - and only Audi/Volkswagen coolant should be used. The power steering fluid in the drivers side front corner just in front of the coolant resevoir should be green, and needs to be flushed or changed every couple of years. The brake fluid up at the back of the engine compartment close to the base of the windshield should be flushed every 2 years or sooner - it should be a very light clear to clearish brown - if dark brown or black get that looked it very soon.

4- Hit ebay up for owners manual

5-Most likely needs brakes

6-Mine kind of moves just a little too, but smoothed out a lot after I changed air filter, fuel filter and plugs.

7-If you are working on it yourself get a BENTLEY PUBLISHERS (BENTLEYPUBLISHERS.com)repair CD, if you really plan on getting into your own repairs buy the ROSS TECH (ROSS-TECH.com)repair software and cable - you can help diagnose check engine lights and all sorts of other things, metric wrenches, metric sockets, metric allen sockets, some ramps and enjoy working on it.

 

If they were the stealer that did teh service (which is the ONLY way they could *know* when it was changed), they should be able to provide you with SOMETHING that says when/what mileage/etc...

This is an easy DIY, FWIW. Even if they swore on a stack of owners manuals that it was changed, I'd still recommend that you either DIY, or have it done, again. better safe than an engine rebuild/replacement

What does teh pictograph look like on the cap covering whatever container holds this red liquid?

Goto: eBay

Lemme guess, the Stealer also told you the brakes were *new*, too, huh? Going super-slowly by riding teh brakes will sometimes cause teh "groaning" noise you mention. Of course, slapping new pads on is not much harder than changing teh Oil. There is a TOOL KIT that makes it go oh-so-smooooovvvvly, which you can also find on ebay for $10-$15 less than harbor Freight sells it.

This should be a more-or-less normal fluctuation, depending on how FAR the needle moves. 100rpm-ish, or less, no worries. 500rpm, or more could be cause for concern.


Ummmm... NO, we WEREN'T wondering, but THANKS for sharing

We'll usually try to help, as much as we're able, or, at the very least, point you in teh right direction. I think you will find, if you start doing some of teh easy stuff yourself, as opposed to paying someone else to do it, that you will appreciate your car MUCH more than teh average schmoe. Welsome to teh forums!

 

Thank you guys very much really appreciate your help! looking forward to asking more questions to you guys along the way.

 

well, there was only two, not two-thousand of us, but you're welcome, nonetheless

 

These cars were 70k new, nobody services they and posts much. I've put up many questions and gotten few replies...if you need help, best bet is to post and hope one of the 10 people nationwide that does this sees your note, or, private message me...I'm willing to talk on the phone also with you...but it is frustrating getting very few replies. I have an old Ford truck for plowing and wood hauling and I get 10 replies a day if I post. LOL.
ABS light/brake light on is usually wheel speed sensor cable damaged. I've taken them out, found the break, and cut that portion of wire out and redid the cables with success.
Watch out for transfer case and trans allen wrench issues. I can't even get my trans 17mm allen out with a 1/2" breaker bar, and I'm pretty strong. I have a 98 A8 with 182k and love it, but, do have a head gasket leak. Have you done the oil cooler tube? Do you have oil leaks?
Also had a misfire on cyl4 and it was a faulty injector. Prior had put a heavy plastic piece between it and the valve cover that cured it, when I took that out (why is this here), viola', misfires...
Most important thing for any engine is fluids and proper temp (coolant). From there, it's cake.