Aftermarket trailer hitch install - part 1 (mechanical)
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Aftermarket trailer hitch install - part 1 (mechanical)
Here's a quick report on the mechanical installation of a Draw-Tite hitch on my 2011 Q5. Part 2 will cover electricals, which is the bigger challenge. I picked the Draw-Tite brand because 1) it required no hole drilling and 2) no cutting of the lower fascia and 3) it's able to match the tow capacity of the vehicle (4500# hitch rating, technically reduced to 4400# to match Audi rating).
I have a bit over 8" ground clearance at the lowest point on the hitch, and 9-1/2" clearance at the rear lip of the receiver. This seems OK to me.
For the most part, you can just follow the manufacturer's instructions. The pull wire that threads onto the end of the bolt to allow installation into a blind crossmember hole is ingenious - I'll have to remember that trick! I wasted time removing items from the inside spare tire area based on previous experience with an S4 and unclear directions from Draw-Tite, but it turns out that all the installation is 100% from underneath, so top access is not needed. It might be convenient to have the car on ramps, but I was able to get everything done without raising up the car.
UPS did their usual el destructo routine during shipping and bent one of the brackets that attaches to the exhaust hanger area, which I didn't discover until the hitch was half installed. Do yourself a favor and measure the spacing between the right and left exhaust hanger hole sets, and bend the hitch brackets if needed. I clamped the bent bracket in a vise and used the hitch as a lever to straighten it.
The directions don't mention the rear parking sensors, which need to be unplugged and the harness removed before you can remove the lower fascia. Unplug each of the 4 sensors from the harness (the connectors have a release tab that you need to depress before separating the two halves). The tricky part is removing the harness from the fascia, as it's held on by 6 or so press-on clips that aren't designed to be removed. You just have to wiggle/pry them off and accept some damage to the fascia ribs. There might be a connector for the entire harness somewhere but it wasn't obvious to me. Or you might be able to swing the fascia far enough out of the way with the harness still attached. Pay attention to the harness location before you install the hitch so you don't have to install the hitch twice!
The hitch seems pretty solid when installed and torqued down, so I don't have any worries that it will handle its rated load. Pictures attached so you can see the results. Hope this helps!
- Ken H.
I have a bit over 8" ground clearance at the lowest point on the hitch, and 9-1/2" clearance at the rear lip of the receiver. This seems OK to me.
For the most part, you can just follow the manufacturer's instructions. The pull wire that threads onto the end of the bolt to allow installation into a blind crossmember hole is ingenious - I'll have to remember that trick! I wasted time removing items from the inside spare tire area based on previous experience with an S4 and unclear directions from Draw-Tite, but it turns out that all the installation is 100% from underneath, so top access is not needed. It might be convenient to have the car on ramps, but I was able to get everything done without raising up the car.
UPS did their usual el destructo routine during shipping and bent one of the brackets that attaches to the exhaust hanger area, which I didn't discover until the hitch was half installed. Do yourself a favor and measure the spacing between the right and left exhaust hanger hole sets, and bend the hitch brackets if needed. I clamped the bent bracket in a vise and used the hitch as a lever to straighten it.
The directions don't mention the rear parking sensors, which need to be unplugged and the harness removed before you can remove the lower fascia. Unplug each of the 4 sensors from the harness (the connectors have a release tab that you need to depress before separating the two halves). The tricky part is removing the harness from the fascia, as it's held on by 6 or so press-on clips that aren't designed to be removed. You just have to wiggle/pry them off and accept some damage to the fascia ribs. There might be a connector for the entire harness somewhere but it wasn't obvious to me. Or you might be able to swing the fascia far enough out of the way with the harness still attached. Pay attention to the harness location before you install the hitch so you don't have to install the hitch twice!
The hitch seems pretty solid when installed and torqued down, so I don't have any worries that it will handle its rated load. Pictures attached so you can see the results. Hope this helps!
- Ken H.
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