Cluster backlight out.
Hmm...
Finished wiring up the W/M again... and my cluster backlight went out; accompanied by a Fuse light. I checked my fuses, nothing bad; haven't run Vag-Com yet... but there aren't any other symptoms as of yet, just a dark gauges. lol
the only two things I wired were the MAF -> ECU signal wire.....
... and the Grey and white hot wire to the Headlight ballast that powers the left Fog Light.
Does anyone know if either of these are directly linked in any way to the backlight for the Tachometer, Speedometer, etc (but not the LCD, and not the warning lights. My seatbelt and brake lights still come on when triggered). I'll be troubleshooting again tomorrow to work out the bugs.
Finished wiring up the W/M again... and my cluster backlight went out; accompanied by a Fuse light. I checked my fuses, nothing bad; haven't run Vag-Com yet... but there aren't any other symptoms as of yet, just a dark gauges. lol
the only two things I wired were the MAF -> ECU signal wire.....
... and the Grey and white hot wire to the Headlight ballast that powers the left Fog Light.
Does anyone know if either of these are directly linked in any way to the backlight for the Tachometer, Speedometer, etc (but not the LCD, and not the warning lights. My seatbelt and brake lights still come on when triggered). I'll be troubleshooting again tomorrow to work out the bugs.
so it is the whole cluster or just the center part?
have you tried adjusting the dimness? are you sure you didn't hit the button on the cruise stalk that makes the center part disapper? i have done that a few times by accident
just a thought........ maybe you shorted something
sorry if this doesn't help
have you tried adjusting the dimness? are you sure you didn't hit the button on the cruise stalk that makes the center part disapper? i have done that a few times by accident
just a thought........ maybe you shorted something
sorry if this doesn't help
ORIGINAL: turbo kraut
so it is the whole cluster or just the center part?
have you tried adjusting the dimness? are you sure you didn't hit the button on the cruise stalk that makes the center part disapper? i have done that a few times by accident
just a thought........ maybe you shorted something
sorry if this doesn't help
so it is the whole cluster or just the center part?
have you tried adjusting the dimness? are you sure you didn't hit the button on the cruise stalk that makes the center part disapper? i have done that a few times by accident
just a thought........ maybe you shorted something
sorry if this doesn't help
ORIGINAL: Me
Does anyone know if either of these are directly linked in any way to the backlight for the Tachometer, Speedometer, etc (but not the LCD, and not the warning lights. My seatbelt and brake lights still come on when triggered).
Does anyone know if either of these are directly linked in any way to the backlight for the Tachometer, Speedometer, etc (but not the LCD, and not the warning lights. My seatbelt and brake lights still come on when triggered).
ONLY the backlight on the guages went out. Like the backlight for the speedometer and tach and fuel guage and temp guages... the backlight went out. The LCD works fine and the regular warning lights work fine (ie: Brake, Seatbelt, ABS, CEL, ESP, Airbag... they all work fine... so does the LCD)
The ONLY thing that does not work... is the background lighting for the guages; as if I turned down the dimmer... except its like I turned it all the way off... not just down.
ORIGINAL: neur0tic
Hmm...
Finished wiring up the W/M again... and my cluster backlight went out; accompanied by a Fuse light. I checked my fuses, nothing bad; haven't run Vag-Com yet... but there aren't any other symptoms as of yet, just a dark gauges. lol
the only two things I wired were the MAF -> ECU signal wire.....
... and the Grey and white hot wire to the Headlight ballast that powers the left Fog Light.
Does anyone know if either of these are directly linked in any way to the backlight for the Tachometer, Speedometer, etc (but not the LCD, and not the warning lights. My seatbelt and brake lights still come on when triggered). I'll be troubleshooting again tomorrow to work out the bugs.
Hmm...
Finished wiring up the W/M again... and my cluster backlight went out; accompanied by a Fuse light. I checked my fuses, nothing bad; haven't run Vag-Com yet... but there aren't any other symptoms as of yet, just a dark gauges. lol
the only two things I wired were the MAF -> ECU signal wire.....
... and the Grey and white hot wire to the Headlight ballast that powers the left Fog Light.
Does anyone know if either of these are directly linked in any way to the backlight for the Tachometer, Speedometer, etc (but not the LCD, and not the warning lights. My seatbelt and brake lights still come on when triggered). I'll be troubleshooting again tomorrow to work out the bugs.
actually checked about 9 of them. lol
I have the same problem.
Only thing though was that when my backlighting went out so did my rear right tail light.[>:]
All fuses are good just dont have backlights.
Im sending the cluster settlment paperwork today.
Hopefully that gets this resolved.
Only thing though was that when my backlighting went out so did my rear right tail light.[>:]
All fuses are good just dont have backlights.
Im sending the cluster settlment paperwork today.
Hopefully that gets this resolved.
I spent 3 solid afternoons figuring a similar situation out out and tracing wiring diagrams for my 2001 Audi TT. If it's not your J123 relay (393), it's your headlight on/off switch. J123 routes power to all lights after the headlight on/off switch is activated. My symptoms were: 1) no right tail light/parking light "dim" brake light despite left working fine, 2) no illumination of the instrument cluster or backlights of buttons, and 3) bulb warning showing up on dashboard. All other lights worked fine, and I had full brake lights turn signals and reverse lights on both left and right. Just no instrument cluster lighting and no rear right tail light despite brake light working. Replace the headlight on/off switch first as the internal circuits are probably going bad. If that doesn't fix it, J123 is could be another culprit if all wiring checks out. Hope this helps others who may encounter this issue.
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