The maf g/s reading would be off from what it usually is. If you dont know where it was before, it would be hard to tell how much its off. Looking over the tip would be the best place to start. If thats fine, i would reset the ecu and then unplug the maf if need be

 

If my tip connections are OK, what do I do after disco. the maf? Do I leave it off?

 

reset the battery and then drive it. If still power loss, unplug the maf and drive it

 

Cool thanks!! Going for a test drive=)

 

I attached the bottom of the TIP and disco. the bat. neg. terminal for about 15-20min. Still no change.. I'm guessing now I have to pull the plug on the MAF and see if I get power back.?

 

So I opened up the hood after I got the TIP on, and started snooping around. thrying to find where im losing power, when i noticed a huge crack in one of the line branching off of the hockey puck looking thingy. LOL. I pulled the remaining pieces off, and made my own piece as a coupler. the part I made had to have 2 different diameters on each end. So i used the handle of a test light, and shaped it to fit in this spot. I then clamped both ends, and wrapped blankets of electrical tape around it to keep a good seal. I noticed that the engine holds more boost than it did. Seeming to fix the problem. This brings up a concern that i had before. Since the little plastic and rubber pieces in this spaghetti knot are so prone to disintegrate, Can I put the entire system under pressure and check to see if I have any areas that aren't holding under boost/vacuum? maybe a DIY on checking your lines for leaks(other than a visual inspection). Im starting to think I can do more in the way of getting my + & - pressures where they need to be.

 

Yeah, thats all your crankcase vent crap. I pulled it all and installed a stainless braided line from the block vent, and the valve cover vent, to a catch can. This is SORTA involved, but the alternative is to replace all the stock pieces that are cracked, or will be eventually.


This is probably 80% of it.
Blow by from pistons or valves is still metered air, it all passed the MAF, so even though it made it to the cylinders, it wasn't burned, and NORMALLY would be recirculated to the intake again (via the hockey puck, which is actually a pressure regulator), for a second chance to be burned.

If its leaking, you're losing metered air, and will run slightly richer, but this shouldn't cause a big issue, the ECU should be able to compensate. Some route their catch can vents to the intake again, mine vents to atmosphere (not an uncommon option).
Just a little knowledge for ya.

 

Thanks. Kinda sucks that this **** is just falling apart. I wish I could just replace some of this garbage. Make things a little cleaner/less problematic.
Is there a way to test the system? It would be nice to apply smoke under pressure, and look for leaks.