Exhaust flow
if you want to DYI,
get 10Ft. of piping, a 2 Hi-Flow glasspack resonators and a Ceramic Hi-Flow Cat, 2 or 1 stainless tip(s)
hit up a pipe bender andand your good to go.
Without a muffler its still Quiet as hell and wont be restrictive plus you pass emissions
and if you want some extra db go with 1 glasspack.
total cost
Stainless: 160$
Aluminized: 110$
get 10Ft. of piping, a 2 Hi-Flow glasspack resonators and a Ceramic Hi-Flow Cat, 2 or 1 stainless tip(s)
hit up a pipe bender andand your good to go.
Without a muffler its still Quiet as hell and wont be restrictive plus you pass emissions
and if you want some extra db go with 1 glasspack.
total cost
Stainless: 160$
Aluminized: 110$
hahahaha :P
i hate drums. biggest pain in the @ss to change, it really sucks that they want to cheap out on crappy suspension and crappy braking all just to make a bigger profit and still overprice the car by 15k$
i hate drums. biggest pain in the @ss to change, it really sucks that they want to cheap out on crappy suspension and crappy braking all just to make a bigger profit and still overprice the car by 15k$
Actually, I'm doing a cat-back straight pipe this spring, with a cherry bomb, just to see how it sounds. I think it should be decent, and obviously cheap.
Going back to flow, and heat, and whatnot, I do have to vote against the exhaust cooling.Its the opposite of your intake, on that side, you want cool air, because its dense, on the exhaust side, you want hot air, because its NOT dense. Getting into the restrictions/backpressure issue, if you ARE running a full exhaust, aka, not dumping to atmosphere, reducing diameter as it moves to the rear is actually smart, because over that 8' of pipe, your exhaust does cool and condense, and a smaller diameter keeps velocity up so you don't end up with a wall of restriction 3/4 of the way back. Turbo or not, techbod is right.
BTW, think you can read flow fairly easily thru vag-com. Might want to look into that.
Going back to flow, and heat, and whatnot, I do have to vote against the exhaust cooling.Its the opposite of your intake, on that side, you want cool air, because its dense, on the exhaust side, you want hot air, because its NOT dense. Getting into the restrictions/backpressure issue, if you ARE running a full exhaust, aka, not dumping to atmosphere, reducing diameter as it moves to the rear is actually smart, because over that 8' of pipe, your exhaust does cool and condense, and a smaller diameter keeps velocity up so you don't end up with a wall of restriction 3/4 of the way back. Turbo or not, techbod is right.
BTW, think you can read flow fairly easily thru vag-com. Might want to look into that.
ORIGINAL: achTTung
reducing diameter as it moves to the rear is actually smart, because over that 8' of pipe, your exhaust does cool and condense, and a smaller diameter keeps velocity up so you don't end up with a wall of restriction 3/4 of the way back. Turbo or not, techbod is right.
reducing diameter as it moves to the rear is actually smart, because over that 8' of pipe, your exhaust does cool and condense, and a smaller diameter keeps velocity up so you don't end up with a wall of restriction 3/4 of the way back. Turbo or not, techbod is right.
i second the 3" piping . you want the least amount of backpressure on the turbo. especially in high rpms, the one way to do that is increase volumetric flow of the pipe.
just get the materials and a shop will charge way less in total. (if you dont want to or cant operate a pipe bender)
ill snap some pics of all the stainless steel parts i got to build my exhaust all 3"
just get the materials and a shop will charge way less in total. (if you dont want to or cant operate a pipe bender)
ill snap some pics of all the stainless steel parts i got to build my exhaust all 3"



