Hi Guys,

I just recently installed a boost gauge on the car and followed instructions to splice the tubing to the FPR for the vacuum feed. Now when I push my car and it hits 20psi it starts to studder and I lose boost.

I checked all the hoses and zip tied them...I also checked the hose running to the gauge with a vacuum pump no leaks... When I ran the car without the hose to the gauge the symptoms are not there...what the heck is going on here?!

Any help would be great, THX!

-Randy

 

Did the tee included with the boost gauge have a restrictor in it? Some do, to stop the gauge from buzzing. Possible that you installed it in a way thats reducing vacuum to the FPR rather than the gauge.

Even if its not restricted, I'd focus my attention around the line to the FPR, sounds like its not getting the vac signal it should be.

 

Seal with silicone, mine did the same.

 

is this one of those push lock lines?

 

I put silicon on the shaft of the FPR valve and double zip tied it, I also swaped the 3bar with a 4bar FPR. Same symptoms occur at 20psi....I remmber I cleaned my K&N air filter with the K&N cleaning kit the same day I installed the boost gauge...maybe the MAF sensor is dirty from excess oil from the airfilter??

I have attached a picture of splice, its just a T adapter with silicon hosing. There were no restrictors, is that something I should get maybe?

 

Get rid of the 4bar, no need for that. Tap the gauge into the dv and not the fpr and see what happens

 

I have chip, ttda, and exhaust. Does that make the 4bar useless still?

I will try to tap the DV later tonight...would getting one of these help? http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?item=161

 

Yes, you have more than enough fuel with the stock fpr, upping it will only make you run rich losing performance and killing mpg.

The T is for if your gauge buzzes when your psi is maxed out. The T that came with your gauge should have a restrictor on it already

 

I see, I will take out the 4bar tonight, I bought gauge used so the T has no restrictor. Maybe that is the culprit?

 

that would most likely cause buzzing. Move to the dv line first and if it still has issues, get the T from there