i will replace the joints for everyone who was involved in the buy that has the more matte finish joints. There were 2 different colors of joints ones that were almost chrome and ones that were a matte finish grey silver. I was told multiple times that the grey ones were identical to the lighter colored ones and they were dimension wise. their parts numbers are the same as well as the specs, but there must be something different in construction. I will request the silver joints instead. I will send any of you who have the grey joints new ones. please pm me. i want to stress the point that i have been running these joints on my car for almost a year more than everyone and have not had the slightest of problems. the matte finish was used on only 2 pairs of arms i believe, everyone else got the silver joints. also the reason why i mention these joints is because that what is in the picture and i'd rather be safe about them. it is a very easy swap of the joints for the people who have them.

 

i must give a fair warning also . i can already see by just looking at the picture the joint on the other side is cocked to one side. that is one main reason these joints may snap. it must be installed vertical otherwise it will reach its limits under suspension compression, and will inevitably fail. I recall you had some squeeking problems. that will also be a tell tale sign of a joint being misaligned.

when the fork end is perfectly vertical on the wheel end, the joint should also be perfectly vertical in regards to its own mount please do not igonre this fact. it is very very important they are properly aligned

 

Clipse, what suspension your running, how low are you?

 

it looks like eibach lowering springs with koni shocks, same ones i have, so thats about 1.5" drop when new and close to 2" after a few years

 

props to precision tt for making it good!



.clipse now you can quit bein a baby and keep ur car lol

 

actually he has a vmaxx set the looked like the koni shocks. in any case i overnighted .clipse a new end and am waiting to recieve the old end back to get it inspected. it the issue was not from binding i assure i will update the setups right away for all of you.

also as a side note, i am running an aluminum fork end on my arms with half the thickness of the steel one. if something were to break from pure stress (not caused by rod end misalignment) that aluminum end would definitely snap first.

 

absolutely sweet customer service, cant ask for more than that!

 

I see no reason to assume that it was the different-coloured joints that are prone to failure. My first thought is a manufacturing defect, as the forces these joints are exposed to are generally not that high; however, I don't think I would just assume that it's only the grey joints that are weaker - unless there's something you didn't say about them.

I'm not trying to be an *** - indeed, I think it's commendable that you're immediately trying to resolve the problem - I'm just very interested in exactly what happened. Please post your findings.

 

i only used a couple of the darker rod ends and that one was one of them so it was a right off the bat assumption as it is almost easier to just replace them (but not based on any info of them being different, otherwise i would have never used them). I am very sure it was something to do with alignment even over a manufacturing flaw because the tear strength of the stock arm is quite a bit lower than these rod ends. (i'm reffering to the fork end of the stock arm which is very thin, and as many of you have already seen they are usually ovaled from wear and tear) even a poor casting would hold a few hundred lbs of linear pull. I talked to my ditributer and he reassured me that the only way these will break is if the are tweaked by binding or get a lot of linear pull on them causing them to wear in time or break if the force exceeds the limits

 

ya winter, i'm on vmaxx coils.

thanks for all the help precision, i'm gonna try and get the new joint in once i get the stock LCA's in.