Need help on oil in intake
OK I have been trying to figure this problem out for awhile now. The problem is oil getting into the intake, a good bit too. I returned the turbo to ATP they replaced the insides and said it was good from the beginning. Im still getting oil in the intake. I thought it might be from the crankcase vent hose but I just checked the hose and its bone dry, no oil residue. I think the oil is coming from the intake pipe right after the turbo. This pipe is where my diverter valve hose goes to, and I think the oil is sneaking its way up that tube and hose cuz I have oil coming out right by the diverter hose. So I checked the diverter and its oily. So am I right in thinking that the oil is coming from the turbo meaning that it is leaking?
Also I have lost hp and that wooosh sound when I let up on the gas is very weak.
It feels like the turbo doesnt even kick in right now. I was trying to see if my diverter valve is good or not. I have it all disconnected and then I put the small diameter hose that goes to the top of the diverter valve (goes to the turbo?) back on, with the car running, and the suction made the diaphram inside the valve go up opening the valve so that the air can go to the hose leading to the intake hose after the turbo. When the gas is stepped on hard the valve closes completly for a second then opens up some. The more gas the less amount of air that goes the intake hose after the turbo. Im not sure how a diverter vlave works exactly and was wondering if mine is bad.
Any suggestions. Thanks.
Also I have lost hp and that wooosh sound when I let up on the gas is very weak.
It feels like the turbo doesnt even kick in right now. I was trying to see if my diverter valve is good or not. I have it all disconnected and then I put the small diameter hose that goes to the top of the diverter valve (goes to the turbo?) back on, with the car running, and the suction made the diaphram inside the valve go up opening the valve so that the air can go to the hose leading to the intake hose after the turbo. When the gas is stepped on hard the valve closes completly for a second then opens up some. The more gas the less amount of air that goes the intake hose after the turbo. Im not sure how a diverter vlave works exactly and was wondering if mine is bad.
Any suggestions. Thanks.
I had the same problem, dont know if its in the same spot but check the PCV valve, or look into a oil catch can, but you may be correct on the divertion valve also how many miles do you have on ur car.
That is weird - listen to this:
2002 Q Coupe. I have a bad hose. Yesterday, under heavy throttle, a hose clamp popped off because a "lip" on the hose has partially torn off. It is the hose that drops down behind the passenger side headlamp assembly (big fat hose) and there are drops of oil in it. When the hose pops off, the turbo "whoosh" is gone and there is far less power. Is this the "diverter" hose and should there be traces of oil in there? A friend of mine told me the oil can be expected because of the turbo, but I'm a little nervous about it. And a new hose from the dealer is $125 to purchase... Jeez!
And if I replace it myself it looks like I have to remove the entire headlamp assembly. Is that an easy job to do?
I didn't plan on tagging along on TTSteve's post but this was too coincidental to pass up.
2002 Q Coupe. I have a bad hose. Yesterday, under heavy throttle, a hose clamp popped off because a "lip" on the hose has partially torn off. It is the hose that drops down behind the passenger side headlamp assembly (big fat hose) and there are drops of oil in it. When the hose pops off, the turbo "whoosh" is gone and there is far less power. Is this the "diverter" hose and should there be traces of oil in there? A friend of mine told me the oil can be expected because of the turbo, but I'm a little nervous about it. And a new hose from the dealer is $125 to purchase... Jeez!
And if I replace it myself it looks like I have to remove the entire headlamp assembly. Is that an easy job to do?
I didn't plan on tagging along on TTSteve's post but this was too coincidental to pass up.
I have the 180 FWD so the engine setup is different but the same problems can happen Im sure. I replaced the check valve for the vent hoses today just to be sure and still have the problem. I have looked at the intake in the engine and all seems to be hooked up right. I have a FMIC so I guess I will have to take off my bumber and check to make sure its all hooked up. Could a bad waste gate be the problem too?
The loss of power and whoosh was caused by a hose slipping off by the fmic so the air flow was broken. I had to take the bumper off to find this and it was caused by oil in the line making the hose slippery. So I had to really tighten down the clamps. Some oil into the intake is normal I guess but I am sure my turbo was bad even though they said it wasnt, why else would the replace the internals? But all is well now.
If I wasnt selling my car now I would do the catch can too. Its not good to get oil in the FMIC that I have on it so I will recommend it to the person who buys the car. Its kinda a shame Im selling at this point as I have just got found the last part of my power problem with the car (vacuum leak). Once that hose is replaced I will be able to get my boost to 22 psi and have the power it should have. Right now I can only get about 18 psi peak due to the vacuum leak and Im sure the leak is causing a lean condition which the ecu trie to fix by adding more fuel really giving me a rich condition. Man these cars can be tricky.
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Sp33d07
Audi A4
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Sep 3, 2006 05:06 AM




