Okay, ignition problems - need more input
Well, you all do what you have to do.
Okay, so I ordered the Ignition Switch from NAPA and got the Ignition Lock Cylinder out. BUT when I took out the Ignition Switch, a metal tounge fell out. It's the piece that goes into the Switch that turns it. It's made of pretty weak metal. Here are my problems:
1. The piece that fell out is obviously an important piece. Would I end up having to buy a new assembly? I don't have my bently's on hand yet so I can't look it up. I'll poke around the net too and see if there's something out there. I found good info from the new FAQ. ***can or should I try to cold weld the little tounge back on to where it was? -I just picked up some bonding compound.
2. Can the car be started with just the ignition switch + screwdriver? If so, should I try it? I just want to get it out of the parking lot it's in and get her home.
3. I plugged the old ignition switch back and got the power on in the car (which I couldn't do before). Would this mean that the old switch is still okay and the problem is somewhere else?
If anyone has any experience with this stuff, I'd appreciate any guidance.
Okay, so I ordered the Ignition Switch from NAPA and got the Ignition Lock Cylinder out. BUT when I took out the Ignition Switch, a metal tounge fell out. It's the piece that goes into the Switch that turns it. It's made of pretty weak metal. Here are my problems:
1. The piece that fell out is obviously an important piece. Would I end up having to buy a new assembly? I don't have my bently's on hand yet so I can't look it up. I'll poke around the net too and see if there's something out there. I found good info from the new FAQ. ***can or should I try to cold weld the little tounge back on to where it was? -I just picked up some bonding compound.
2. Can the car be started with just the ignition switch + screwdriver? If so, should I try it? I just want to get it out of the parking lot it's in and get her home.
3. I plugged the old ignition switch back and got the power on in the car (which I couldn't do before). Would this mean that the old switch is still okay and the problem is somewhere else?
If anyone has any experience with this stuff, I'd appreciate any guidance.
Hey, I could pm you but ill just post here. I want to apoligize for starting that bull shiat in your last thread.[sm=imsorry.gif]
Maybe google "how to hot wire a car" or something alike but if its in a parking lot you risk the chance of i getting towed at least i think so. I will scan my bentley for you tommorrow when it comes in.
Maybe google "how to hot wire a car" or something alike but if its in a parking lot you risk the chance of i getting towed at least i think so. I will scan my bentley for you tommorrow when it comes in.
If the key/screwdriver will turn the ignition switch to its appropriate points to start the car, I don't see why you wouldn't. It's been forever since I've had a ignition switch torn apart, but what I gather happened something like a woodruff or similar key broke and/or fell out? Its probably only to key the lock cylinder to the ignition switch. I'd consider a salvage yard before worrying about replacing your entire lock cylinder from the dealer. If its only the woodruff (I'm using that name to differentiate between that and the key you'd keep on your keychain), you should be able to salvage that from another ignition w/o needing a different lock cylinder.
Hope this helps.
I'll try to get my bentley up and running tonight/tomorrow if you still need help.
Hope this helps.
I'll try to get my bentley up and running tonight/tomorrow if you still need help.
Thanks fellas, there's not much salvage yards here in hawaii that I know of. I'm not too focused on getting the car fixed permanently right now but just getting started. We'll see if I can find a way. Again, no worries on the other thread.
Depending on how long you're willing to wait (I have no idea what the shipping situation is out to the islands), I've used Chris Semple at www.force5auto.com before, and Shokan is guaranteed to have something, last I checked they had 6-7 TT's for parts.
Give it a shot just turning the ignition w/o the lock cylinder. Just be sure you can get it back from the starter position, I'd hate to hear what that would sound like if you ended up unable to release the starter.
Give it a shot just turning the ignition w/o the lock cylinder. Just be sure you can get it back from the starter position, I'd hate to hear what that would sound like if you ended up unable to release the starter.
Thanks for the help so far. I might have to replace the Ignition Lock Housing since I found that broken piece and I'm doubting if the cold weld would work. Any hook ups on what bently says about replacing it would be awesome.
thanks in advance.
thanks in advance.
I got her home finally. I thought about it at work and figured I can either push start her or hot wire. Good thing the ignition switch still semi worked and I was able to keep it the car on while I hot wired her. Drove her home with all the toggles and switches off and just the steering wheel on. I never knew I could drive my car without the key. Well, hopefully the parts arrive on time and I can get her back on the road.
Another Bump. Let's try this agian...
I got the Ignition switch today and it's not looking like that's the problem. If anyone has a Bently who would like to share how to take apart the Ignition Switch/Ignition Lock Column Housing, it would be greatly appreciated.
Looks like I'm going to have to hotwire her to run for a bit just so I could drive her. Thanks.
I got the Ignition switch today and it's not looking like that's the problem. If anyone has a Bently who would like to share how to take apart the Ignition Switch/Ignition Lock Column Housing, it would be greatly appreciated.
Looks like I'm going to have to hotwire her to run for a bit just so I could drive her. Thanks.
The metal piece that's supposed to go into the switch broke off and fell out when I took out the switch. With a screwdriver, I can turn the old switch and I can get it to the on position. The action on the switch I just bought is the same... which brings me back to the questions above.
1. with a screwdriver, are you supposed to be able to turn on the car using only the switch?
2. will i be able to get away with cold welding the tounge back to the ignition lockhousing so it can operate the switch or do I have to buy the housing as well? Internet price for the lowest bidder is 93.95, stealership says 166.39
3. (this pretty much I'll find out after Questions 1 and 2 have been resolved) Is there a posibility that there's also a part failure in the Ignition Lock Column? Dealership price 149.22 for VIN, 246.75 from 3rd party shop.
I'm just glad the parts I'm working on isnt in the engine bay or else I'd be screwed with the labor too. She's become all sorts of a money pit... a gold digger of sorts. Good thing she looks gorgeous!
1. with a screwdriver, are you supposed to be able to turn on the car using only the switch?
2. will i be able to get away with cold welding the tounge back to the ignition lockhousing so it can operate the switch or do I have to buy the housing as well? Internet price for the lowest bidder is 93.95, stealership says 166.39
3. (this pretty much I'll find out after Questions 1 and 2 have been resolved) Is there a posibility that there's also a part failure in the Ignition Lock Column? Dealership price 149.22 for VIN, 246.75 from 3rd party shop.
I'm just glad the parts I'm working on isnt in the engine bay or else I'd be screwed with the labor too. She's become all sorts of a money pit... a gold digger of sorts. Good thing she looks gorgeous!


