i know alot of 180 guys do the diode mod, and i know other vw guys do it. Has anyone done it on a 225 and NOT had problems? I have read a few people did it and had issues or things break... and what not. I dont know i far i plan to go with my car but, if i plan to go BT a chipped ecu will be completely useless to me. If i went bt i would prob run megasuirt. If i can run a diode and run 19-20ish psi and not have any problems i would prefer that for now. I just dont want to spend 600+ dollars on a chip and then a year down the road pull it out for something else and only get 200-300 for my ecu.
I know that i would need a boost controller.
I just remember reading about someone doing it and their car ran like **** and then broke. I was trying to find where i read it but now i cant.

anyway. Has anyone done it and been successful? and what was the diode you used?

 

I just put a diode on my 225 this month. Nice amount of extra performance for the cheap upgrade.
I am sure others will chime in.
The diode you need is the same 4.3 x 1 zener diode available all over the place.... cheap. (mine was donated by a very generous member here on the boards) THANKS AGAIN.. IF HE SEES THIS!
The very same diode the 180 guys used.
It took a few days to get the mbc adjusted correctly.....buy a good one. You might also think about getting a better D/V than the factory plastic one & a cone filter to help move a little bit more air. A new turbo intake hose may be needed. (I dont have one yet)
Also.....if you dont have one yet.....boost gauge is required before you do this.
Super easy to do the mod.....the wires you need are the ones running up the hose coming into the throttle body. Very easy to get to & see what you are doing. Took me all of 20 minutes to strip solder & tape in place.
I am running 20 at full boost now with no flutter that settles in at about 17-18 lbs on a long pull.
Hope this helps,
Eric

 

some have good luck with this mods...others not so lucky...could be many factors involved..from a bad connection and from the car running poor before hand. etc etc
first off dont think you get the same performance from a diode that you do from a chip...you get more boost with this which in turn gives you more power but doesnt change timing like a chip program does...there is a reason you spend 400-500 on a chip tune...my fav is APR pretty advanced software IMO it repsponds to water meth very well without making any changes via unitune or lemmiwinks

 

dude, there have been plenty of diode threads about this stuff

they have worked... but some idiots (that guy who i cant remember at the moment arg) couldnt figure it out nor would listen

 

yeah there are plenty of thread on this. for 180s. I have seen one other thread for a 225 and his car broke and blamed it on the diode. After re-reading i thread i think he was just and idiot.

anywho. I have a boost gauge, i have a tip, i have a cone filter. I would just need a boost controller and a dv... I was thinking about a 007 dv and a turbo xs boost controller... or maybe the modshack... I know how some feel about modshack but that one seems great to make boost smooth and hold. I know why you pay that money for the chips and if i did one i would drive to chicago for a uni BUT if i go big turbo i dont want to pay more money for new maps. I would rather tune myself with megasquirt or something similar. I just figured this would be a good solution until i make up my mind. Cuz right now 14.3psi just isnt enough... I would like to spike whatever and hold 19-20 if i can.
Did anyone that did this get a 4bar or anything extra with it to make it better?

 

red... cough ^ that might be your idiot, i know he is this forums

The first person that did a diode on a 225 here also ran with a a/f gauge and had plenty of fuel for 20+ psi to maintain 11.5-12:1 under boost. Running 20-22psi on a 225 shouldnt be a problem. But as said before, the boost controler is what makes the difference, dont cheap out there.

 

No need for a 4bar, the 380s at 3bar is more than enough. Also, you can make a crap load of power with a chip tune and BT. There are people making well over 600whp on Tapp 1k cc files FYI. If you rather have a chip, just flash with a unitronic chip and all you have to pay later is the difference for the BT flash and maybe the "labor" involved.

 

meh i think i will just diode it for now. If i change my mind in the future i can always do that. If i chip it and change my mind im out 600+ dollars.

so i will get a boost controller and a diode and do it next week. would you consider the boost machine a bad product cincy? i think i read you arent a big fan of modshack products lol. If not that then just a turbo xs. I though I read that the modshack can control spikes, how hard it comes in, and how long it holds boost better than a boost controller. I could have made that up though.. haha

 

If you read long enough, im sure you can figure out why i dont like modshack. As for the BM... ha ha pooh! It is basically the same thing as a TurboXS HPBC in a much larger package that requires more vac line and with a $50 higher price tag. The BM claims to have boost onset and smoothing and that is also done on a hpbc. The bleed smooths out spiking and the boost onset while the b&s will decrease lag and hold boost longer. Not to mention the BM needs to use the n75 to achieve this while the hpbc can do it by itself. One boost controller is always better than 2 btw.

 

works for me. I just ordered a turbo xs hpbc and a forge 007 dv.