2.8 Performance Parts
I know I don't post much on this forum(I do intend to more
), but I've had v6 A4's for a long time. I've done some mods and have read a lot.
As satan already said, I have to agree that being new, you're not going to be able to out drive a nearly 200hp car. Back in my day, going from 8v to 16v was mind blowing. You can still get into a lot of trouble with 150 hp 3200lb car. Your dad is wise and doesn't want you to kill yourself.
That said, I'll comment on intake. As people have said, intake mods do almost nothing. The reason for this, from my research is the size of the maf. The net size is 2.12" ID. The later 12v MAF are actually bigger! Which is crazy considering the 30v has 2.5 more valves and flow potential. So you can change the pipe and filter, exhaust, etc but against the restriction the benefits are nullified.
That said, I changed my filter with a panel K&N and I did get 2-3 mpg extra on the highway and the butt dyno felt better. I wouldn't recommend going with an open cone filter as you're going to suck in all that hot engine bay air. The stock box is good in that it insulates from heat. The corrugated intake pipe is good for sound damping, but the ridges slow intake. Some have replaced it with smooth silicone getting good results.
You've got to realize that NA engines are very sensitive to flow, mis-matched ports and other restrictions. So if you want you can get all that ported and gasket matched, but it's a lot of cash(thousands) unless you do it yourself. And if you clerance the valves and do all the matching, you need to advance timing a bit and probably adjust fuel. That means stand-alone most likely. See how complicated it can get? It's not that you can't mod the 2.8, its just that it's easier and cheaper to mod the 1.8t. Forced induction overcomes things like small maf, mis-matched ports etc. Even with a ram intake on an NA car, at 70 mph you only get around 1psi positive pressure. That's nothing compared to 18psi+ on a modded car.
Yes, there's the supercharger, but honestly, your mileage will tank so bad you may not be able to swallow it. Remember you need to run 91+, not 87 like toyotas or hondas. Check out www.scaudi.com and you'll see a lot of complaints on the tune from PES. Sometimes you can find one used in the 3000 range though.
Back to the MAF. There is a guy called Mance who has modded the crap out of his 12v. He's made and sold 3" ID maf's and throttle bodies and they really work, but they are expensive and are hard to find. That's about the only meaningfull NA mods you can do using the stock ecu mapping. Speedtuning chip will help a bit and I'd do that for ease.
For reference, IS300 (similar engine size) have a maf upgraded that's 3.5" ID from www.swiftracing.com and has proven to give 20+hp. We don't have such a thing for audi's again since the low interest in 30v modding. The IS300 kit also comes with a box that compensates for the lager maf size (since the hotwire signal will change due to size). So you can't really go bigger than 3" ID unless you can find a way to recalibrate the maf signal. Potentially our engine could benefit from a 4.5" MAF. A project I've been trying to figure out for a while... but you know things get in the way. I'm still modding my rx-7
Anyhow, this is too long. Have fun with the new car.
), but I've had v6 A4's for a long time. I've done some mods and have read a lot. As satan already said, I have to agree that being new, you're not going to be able to out drive a nearly 200hp car. Back in my day, going from 8v to 16v was mind blowing. You can still get into a lot of trouble with 150 hp 3200lb car. Your dad is wise and doesn't want you to kill yourself.
That said, I'll comment on intake. As people have said, intake mods do almost nothing. The reason for this, from my research is the size of the maf. The net size is 2.12" ID. The later 12v MAF are actually bigger! Which is crazy considering the 30v has 2.5 more valves and flow potential. So you can change the pipe and filter, exhaust, etc but against the restriction the benefits are nullified.
That said, I changed my filter with a panel K&N and I did get 2-3 mpg extra on the highway and the butt dyno felt better. I wouldn't recommend going with an open cone filter as you're going to suck in all that hot engine bay air. The stock box is good in that it insulates from heat. The corrugated intake pipe is good for sound damping, but the ridges slow intake. Some have replaced it with smooth silicone getting good results.
You've got to realize that NA engines are very sensitive to flow, mis-matched ports and other restrictions. So if you want you can get all that ported and gasket matched, but it's a lot of cash(thousands) unless you do it yourself. And if you clerance the valves and do all the matching, you need to advance timing a bit and probably adjust fuel. That means stand-alone most likely. See how complicated it can get? It's not that you can't mod the 2.8, its just that it's easier and cheaper to mod the 1.8t. Forced induction overcomes things like small maf, mis-matched ports etc. Even with a ram intake on an NA car, at 70 mph you only get around 1psi positive pressure. That's nothing compared to 18psi+ on a modded car.
Yes, there's the supercharger, but honestly, your mileage will tank so bad you may not be able to swallow it. Remember you need to run 91+, not 87 like toyotas or hondas. Check out www.scaudi.com and you'll see a lot of complaints on the tune from PES. Sometimes you can find one used in the 3000 range though.
Back to the MAF. There is a guy called Mance who has modded the crap out of his 12v. He's made and sold 3" ID maf's and throttle bodies and they really work, but they are expensive and are hard to find. That's about the only meaningfull NA mods you can do using the stock ecu mapping. Speedtuning chip will help a bit and I'd do that for ease.
For reference, IS300 (similar engine size) have a maf upgraded that's 3.5" ID from www.swiftracing.com and has proven to give 20+hp. We don't have such a thing for audi's again since the low interest in 30v modding. The IS300 kit also comes with a box that compensates for the lager maf size (since the hotwire signal will change due to size). So you can't really go bigger than 3" ID unless you can find a way to recalibrate the maf signal. Potentially our engine could benefit from a 4.5" MAF. A project I've been trying to figure out for a while... but you know things get in the way. I'm still modding my rx-7

Anyhow, this is too long. Have fun with the new car.
Last edited by theflash; Mar 19, 2010 at 02:07 PM.
As stated, to go faster, it takes quite a bit of money, or nitrous. If your dad won't let you get a 1.8T then nitrous is probably out of the question. Aftermarket breathing parts have minimal effect on this engine although the cone filter is worth it for the sound and the fact that you won't ever have to buy another air filter. The ECU from www.speedtuning.com is a nice mod for the 2.8 - smoother power delivery, a midrange torque bump that you can feel, and a higher rev limiter all make the price very reasonable.
This isn't a bad situation for you. Learn to drive - really drive - and then get a car that you can modify for power. You can still do plenty to a 2.8 for style, handling, and braking. That will make the car quicker from A to B and will make it more fun.
This isn't a bad situation for you. Learn to drive - really drive - and then get a car that you can modify for power. You can still do plenty to a 2.8 for style, handling, and braking. That will make the car quicker from A to B and will make it more fun.
What filter would be the best?
I was thinking either a fujita or and injen.
I know I don't post much on this forum(I do intend to more
), but I've had v6 A4's for a long time. I've done some mods and have read a lot.
As satan already said, I have to agree that being new, you're not going to be able to out drive a nearly 200hp car. Back in my day, going from 8v to 16v was mind blowing. You can still get into a lot of trouble with 150 hp 3200lb car. Your dad is wise and doesn't want you to kill yourself.
That said, I'll comment on intake. As people have said, intake mods do almost nothing. The reason for this, from my research is the size of the maf. The net size is 2.12" ID. The later 12v MAF are actually bigger! Which is crazy considering the 30v has 2.5 more valves and flow potential. So you can change the pipe and filter, exhaust, etc but against the restriction the benefits are nullified.
That said, I changed my filter with a panel K&N and I did get 2-3 mpg extra on the highway and the butt dyno felt better. I wouldn't recommend going with an open cone filter as you're going to suck in all that hot engine bay air. The stock box is good in that it insulates from heat. The corrugated intake pipe is good for sound damping, but the ridges slow intake. Some have replaced it with smooth silicone getting good results.
You've got to realize that NA engines are very sensitive to flow, mis-matched ports and other restrictions. So if you want you can get all that ported and gasket matched, but it's a lot of cash(thousands) unless you do it yourself. And if you clerance the valves and do all the matching, you need to advance timing a bit and probably adjust fuel. That means stand-alone most likely. See how complicated it can get? It's not that you can't mod the 2.8, its just that it's easier and cheaper to mod the 1.8t. Forced induction overcomes things like small maf, mis-matched ports etc. Even with a ram intake on an NA car, at 70 mph you only get around 1psi positive pressure. That's nothing compared to 18psi+ on a modded car.
Yes, there's the supercharger, but honestly, your mileage will tank so bad you may not be able to swallow it. Remember you need to run 91+, not 87 like toyotas or hondas. Check out www.scaudi.com and you'll see a lot of complaints on the tune from PES. Sometimes you can find one used in the 3000 range though.
Back to the MAF. There is a guy called Mance who has modded the crap out of his 12v. He's made and sold 3" ID maf's and throttle bodies and they really work, but they are expensive and are hard to find. That's about the only meaningfull NA mods you can do using the stock ecu mapping. Speedtuning chip will help a bit and I'd do that for ease.
For reference, IS300 (similar engine size) have a maf upgraded that's 3.5" ID from www.swiftracing.com and has proven to give 20+hp. We don't have such a thing for audi's again since the low interest in 30v modding. The IS300 kit also comes with a box that compensates for the lager maf size (since the hotwire signal will change due to size). So you can't really go bigger than 3" ID unless you can find a way to recalibrate the maf signal. Potentially our engine could benefit from a 4.5" MAF. A project I've been trying to figure out for a while... but you know things get in the way. I'm still modding my rx-7
Anyhow, this is too long. Have fun with the new car.
), but I've had v6 A4's for a long time. I've done some mods and have read a lot. As satan already said, I have to agree that being new, you're not going to be able to out drive a nearly 200hp car. Back in my day, going from 8v to 16v was mind blowing. You can still get into a lot of trouble with 150 hp 3200lb car. Your dad is wise and doesn't want you to kill yourself.
That said, I'll comment on intake. As people have said, intake mods do almost nothing. The reason for this, from my research is the size of the maf. The net size is 2.12" ID. The later 12v MAF are actually bigger! Which is crazy considering the 30v has 2.5 more valves and flow potential. So you can change the pipe and filter, exhaust, etc but against the restriction the benefits are nullified.
That said, I changed my filter with a panel K&N and I did get 2-3 mpg extra on the highway and the butt dyno felt better. I wouldn't recommend going with an open cone filter as you're going to suck in all that hot engine bay air. The stock box is good in that it insulates from heat. The corrugated intake pipe is good for sound damping, but the ridges slow intake. Some have replaced it with smooth silicone getting good results.
You've got to realize that NA engines are very sensitive to flow, mis-matched ports and other restrictions. So if you want you can get all that ported and gasket matched, but it's a lot of cash(thousands) unless you do it yourself. And if you clerance the valves and do all the matching, you need to advance timing a bit and probably adjust fuel. That means stand-alone most likely. See how complicated it can get? It's not that you can't mod the 2.8, its just that it's easier and cheaper to mod the 1.8t. Forced induction overcomes things like small maf, mis-matched ports etc. Even with a ram intake on an NA car, at 70 mph you only get around 1psi positive pressure. That's nothing compared to 18psi+ on a modded car.
Yes, there's the supercharger, but honestly, your mileage will tank so bad you may not be able to swallow it. Remember you need to run 91+, not 87 like toyotas or hondas. Check out www.scaudi.com and you'll see a lot of complaints on the tune from PES. Sometimes you can find one used in the 3000 range though.
Back to the MAF. There is a guy called Mance who has modded the crap out of his 12v. He's made and sold 3" ID maf's and throttle bodies and they really work, but they are expensive and are hard to find. That's about the only meaningfull NA mods you can do using the stock ecu mapping. Speedtuning chip will help a bit and I'd do that for ease.
For reference, IS300 (similar engine size) have a maf upgraded that's 3.5" ID from www.swiftracing.com and has proven to give 20+hp. We don't have such a thing for audi's again since the low interest in 30v modding. The IS300 kit also comes with a box that compensates for the lager maf size (since the hotwire signal will change due to size). So you can't really go bigger than 3" ID unless you can find a way to recalibrate the maf signal. Potentially our engine could benefit from a 4.5" MAF. A project I've been trying to figure out for a while... but you know things get in the way. I'm still modding my rx-7

Anyhow, this is too long. Have fun with the new car.
hahahaha. Are you 16?


