Huge progress don't you think?

Did you check the hoses on the evap canister to see if they were clogged, broken etc? Is the wiring FOR the EVAP canister good etc... it could be just a loose plug/connector as well.

It could be something simple with the eval canister or the fuel pump, here's a list of what the code resolutions COULD be:

Trouble Code: P1421
Secondary Air Injector Valve Circuit Short to Ground

Possible Causes:
Connector to the secondary air injection valve is loose or disconnected
Secondary air injector valve circuit short
Secondary air injector valve circuit is open
Faulty secondary air injector valve
ECM has failed

Trouble Code: P1425
Tank Ventilation Valve Short to Ground

Possible Causes:
Activation wire has a short to ground
ECM has failed
EVAP canister has failed
EVAP canister system has an improper or broken seal
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve is faulty
Leak Detection Pump (LDP) is faulty

Trouble Code: P1435
Secondary Air Injection System Pump Relay Circuit Short to Ground

Possible Causes:
Fuel pump relays have failed
Fuel injector has failed
Hoses on the EVAP canister may be clogged
EVAP canister purge regulator valve may be faulty
ECM may have failed
Manifold Tuning Valve (IMT) may have failed

Trouble Code: P1472
EVAP Emission Control Leak Detection Pump Circuit Short to Ground

Possible Causes:
Leak Detection Pump has failed
EVAP canister system has an improper or broken seal
Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve 1 is faulty
Hoses between the fuel pump and the EVAP canister are faulty
Fuel filler cap is loose
Fuel pump seal is defective, faulty or otherwise leaking
Hoses between the EVAP canister and the fuel flap unit are faulty
Hoses between the EVAP canister and the evaporative emission canister purge regulator valve are faulty
ECM has failed

 

thanks markymarc, but i jumped the gun and i rescanned my car last night after driving into town and 15 codes came back. still two less so its progress. but i still have...
p0300
p0301
p0303
p0302
p0160
p1435
p1421
p1425
p1472
p1196
p1197
p1198
p1199
p0134
p0154

i still have mifires on 123, since there all on one side could it be a fuel issue instead of spark?

 

Have you changed or checked the spark plugs? How long have the codes been there or how long has it been running rough?

This may help for the 11xx and 14xx codes....
http://www.justanswer.com/audi/3jwnr...des-p1435.html

 

Also, are you sure you checked ALL your fuses? You have a few short to ground codes in there...did you just look at them or test them?
P0102, P1425, P1530 Recurring Codes

 

the spark plugs are about two weeks old, the codes have been on since i got it last month. and i pulled the fuses and visually inspected them and found number 29 to be blown and replaced it.

 

so i checked the breather hose and this is what i found

 

i just replaced the breather hose and now after acceleration my rpm will drop to 500 and sometimes will stall, and i tested the maf and theres no difference when i unplug the maf so is the maf bad?

 

HOLY S*&t that hose is clogged???? What is that stuff in it?? Can't really tell from the pictures....but I'm going to guess it's condensation (oil/water)

The car will have to re-adapt now, don't jump to conclusions about the MAF - yet...it's been running with that damn hose clogged for so long...here's a way to manually reset the throttle body I think, you may need to google it, reset the throttle body:

Disconnect the battery for 20 minutes
then reconnect it
switch on the ignition without starting the car and let it sit for around 5-10 minutes
then turn it off, pull key out and then start the car....

This SHOULD reset the throttle body for you.

Or you can do it with the VAG software:
Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Throttle Body Alignment

At least there's a change, not a good one, but it means you're getting closer to fixing it. Really, you are.....

 

When you look at the MAF, you should actually be able to SEE the little filament in it, you may also see dirt...if you don't see a little filament in it, MAF is definitely broken....

It looks like water/oil (probably condensation). Have you checked the oil? Drained it a little? Is the color the same?

Check your oil filler cap as well, there may be a little there too. You could probably get some oil detergent and run a tank of gas through it, that should help clean it out when you drain your oil for next oil change

You may also have a bunch of water in your SAI pump.....

Here's a link to someone with the same problem:
http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2779046

 

Markymarc is dead-on in his help so far. I want to add an observation - all your misfires are on the passenger side bank. You need to verify that your physical (mechanical) timing is correct. It's possible that your cam sprocket may not be timed right due to improper install of the timing belt or due to a worn cam chain tensioner.

You make no mention of this but at cold start do you hear a shop-vac whine from the area below the passenger side headlight? You could have a bad SAP.

For the manual reset of the throttle sensor, turn the key on and let it sit a minute. Shut off for five minutes. Repeat 2x more. That'll get your thrlttle sensor about 90% of the way home , and the rest of the adaptation will happen during driving.