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ABS light and Brake Light flashing - vag-com(diy) or shop?- need insight please?

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ABS light and Brake Light flashing - vag-com(diy) or shop?- need insight please?

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  #21  
Old 12-18-2012, 09:12 AM
audibullet's Avatar
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I'm having a similar problem. I drive a 2001 a4. The ABS light is on and the brake light blinks. But, it doesn't happen when my car sits for about a day. And when it's extremely cold outside, it never comes on until my brakes or engine heat up. I've had someone check the sensor in the engine and they say it's fine. From what I've read on here, I should start to check the sensors on the wheels? I'm not very car savvy and would have to take it to someone. But if someone could give me ideas on what I should be looking for, please let me know asap. My car won't pass inspection in VA with it on. D:
 
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  #22  
Old 12-18-2012, 10:03 AM
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audibullet: sounds like your ABS module. some people have had luck using a heat gun to melt the solder. the reason is because over time there's something called solder creep where the solder basically moves from its original spot. since the solder points are very close together, overtime it will cause a short. remelting the solder will allow for the liquid property to take over where the spread out solder will go back into somewhat of a ball shape it was originally in.


a temporary fix is to remove the ABS module fuse in the fuse panel on the driver's side dash. this disables ABS so you'll have to keep in mind when driving that if you slam on your brakes, ABS won't be there to aid you in slowing down.

if a sensor is bad, you'll get a code for it. swap in a working sensor and if the code still points to that sensor, check the ABS ring. the ring is always right under where the sensor is. sometimes the rings break causing a messed up signal. usually it's the rear rings that go bad because the front ones are probably new since the ring is on the axle. rear axles rare go bad.


i really think it's your module though since it only happens when the car is warm or when it's warm out
 
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  #23  
Old 12-18-2012, 11:04 AM
audibullet's Avatar
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Originally Posted by hiwords View Post
audibullet: sounds like your ABS module. some people have had luck using a heat gun to melt the solder. the reason is because over time there's something called solder creep where the solder basically moves from its original spot. since the solder points are very close together, overtime it will cause a short. remelting the solder will allow for the liquid property to take over where the spread out solder will go back into somewhat of a ball shape it was originally in.


a temporary fix is to remove the ABS module fuse in the fuse panel on the driver's side dash. this disables ABS so you'll have to keep in mind when driving that if you slam on your brakes, ABS won't be there to aid you in slowing down.

if a sensor is bad, you'll get a code for it. swap in a working sensor and if the code still points to that sensor, check the ABS ring. the ring is always right under where the sensor is. sometimes the rings break causing a messed up signal. usually it's the rear rings that go bad because the front ones are probably new since the ring is on the axle. rear axles rare go bad.


i really think it's your module though since it only happens when the car is warm or when it's warm out
I've tried taking the fuse out but for some reason, it's connected to my engine and my engine won't start without the fuse. But I'll try the other
idea!
 
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  #24  
Old 01-12-2013, 02:44 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
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Is it true, that if an ABS module is bad, the n75 code cannot be erase using VAGCOM?

Replaced N75, 210 DV from ECS, did boost leak (multi times), new MAF sensor. The car still runs in Limp mode and still have n75 code.

Just paid $65 for a dude to come over and try to delete my codes but n75 code still shows up instantly. He tried to do a TBA, at first it would not work saying partially open then error. A few minutes later after removing hose and wire plugs thats connected to the TB, tried to do a VAGCOM TBA it started operating but still wont work and now the car wont start. (second window not moving at all, either close or open, but first window does)

ANyways back to abs module and sensor:

What are your experience with module master and the longetivity/quality of the refurbrish ABS module? thanks
 

Last edited by astig1510; 01-12-2013 at 02:50 PM.
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  #25  
Old 03-18-2014, 09:22 PM
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Hi,I have an 2000 Audi a4 Quattro 2.8 and engine ,abs and brake lights are on my brake light flashes when driving need honest opinion on how to fix this?
 
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  #26  
Old 12-15-2017, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by pengin221 View Post
http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/pdf/s...speed/IA-C.pdf
As this document says air gap play a important role to generate output pulse voltage. If the gap is too short sensor may generate too big pulse,
and left and right voltage balance may also have some problem, for ABS module computation.

bosch original site recommends 0.5 to 1.8mm for some sensor.
0mm is no good. 0.5 to 1.8mm may be the best suit value, for some bosch sensor.

http://rb-k.bosch.de/en/powerconsump...eedsensor.html


In my case I adjusted 3mm around reading some other document, and I think I must correct to the value above!

As I said new stock one have pvc tip on top to adjust, after installation it goes away worn by, rubbed by magnetics heads. In my case mine was shining and a littlebit worn its flat head, by pushing hard too deep in the hole.

So, please search google with air gap, speed sensor and Bosch, you can find details what I mean.
Audi A4 ABS light on and brake light is on as well.

Hi so I'm having issues with my 2007 Audi A4. I turned on my car and two lights come on the ABS light and brake light. Upon reading on the threads I noticed something also with the front axle.. As I go around a turn going right i can metal rubbing. I check the tire it's not that so I'm thinking it's something to do with the axel and hence the problem with the ABS light and brake light. Can anyone help and give me a solution.
 
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