Another P0411 cel code
(Secondary air injection incorrect flow detected)
O.k. so I know my secondary air pump is running fine. The only vacuum line that looks bad is the long one that runs in front of the timing belt cover and connects to the BPV. Could this be a cause for the code? Thanks in advance.
O.k. so I know my secondary air pump is running fine. The only vacuum line that looks bad is the long one that runs in front of the timing belt cover and connects to the BPV. Could this be a cause for the code? Thanks in advance.
(Secondary air injection incorrect flow detected)
O.k. so I know my secondary air pump is running fine. The only vacuum line that looks bad is the long one that runs in front of the timing belt cover and connects to the BPV. Could this be a cause for the code? Thanks in advance.
O.k. so I know my secondary air pump is running fine. The only vacuum line that looks bad is the long one that runs in front of the timing belt cover and connects to the BPV. Could this be a cause for the code? Thanks in advance.
It's a 1.8T ATW
So there's actually a few of them I've seen. So Is this like a kind of trial and error thing?
I want to look into that too. So are these pretty much all possible causes if the pump is running fine? Is there a chance that maybe the sensor that's sending the code could be bad? I have no idea where that would be located though.
Thanks everyone for the help.
Thanks everyone for the help.
You'd have other codes if it was the sensor. If I remember correctly, it's the O2 sensors that send that code. Basically, the pump throws in some extra air on a cold start to the exhaust mani to balance the fuel trims and so the pre cat O2 sensors register the extra oxygen and tell the computer to use less fuel so its not running rich while everything is getting up to normal operating temperature (at least thats how I understood the mechanism when it was explained to me) so if it were the sensor that was bad, you'd have a CEL for a bad O2 sensor as well. Other than that, yes, these are more or less all of the things that would throw that.
Vac line tubing is relatively cheap ($6.95/3 feet on ECS if I remember right) or silicone vac line is even cheaper, but I dont remember the good site for that so you might research that if you want something a little more durable than the stock, braided rubber line. But go through and replace all the vac lines, especially the DV line Tweaked mentioned, after that, troubleshoot the check/combi valves, and then replace the relay if it's still throwing the code (I say leave the relay to last cuz thats the most expensive component, ~30 bucks so work with what is cheapest first IMO)
Vac line tubing is relatively cheap ($6.95/3 feet on ECS if I remember right) or silicone vac line is even cheaper, but I dont remember the good site for that so you might research that if you want something a little more durable than the stock, braided rubber line. But go through and replace all the vac lines, especially the DV line Tweaked mentioned, after that, troubleshoot the check/combi valves, and then replace the relay if it's still throwing the code (I say leave the relay to last cuz thats the most expensive component, ~30 bucks so work with what is cheapest first IMO)
You'd have other codes if it was the sensor. If I remember correctly, it's the O2 sensors that send that code. Basically, the pump throws in some extra air on a cold start to the exhaust mani to balance the fuel trims and so the pre cat O2 sensors register the extra oxygen and tell the computer to use less fuel so its not running rich while everything is getting up to normal operating temperature (at least thats how I understood the mechanism when it was explained to me) so if it were the sensor that was bad, you'd have a CEL for a bad O2 sensor as well. Other than that, yes, these are more or less all of the things that would throw that.
Vac line tubing is relatively cheap ($6.95/3 feet on ECS if I remember right) or silicone vac line is even cheaper, but I dont remember the good site for that so you might research that if you want something a little more durable than the stock, braided rubber line. But go through and replace all the vac lines, especially the DV line Tweaked mentioned, after that, troubleshoot the check/combi valves, and then replace the relay if it's still throwing the code (I say leave the relay to last cuz thats the most expensive component, ~30 bucks so work with what is cheapest first IMO)
Vac line tubing is relatively cheap ($6.95/3 feet on ECS if I remember right) or silicone vac line is even cheaper, but I dont remember the good site for that so you might research that if you want something a little more durable than the stock, braided rubber line. But go through and replace all the vac lines, especially the DV line Tweaked mentioned, after that, troubleshoot the check/combi valves, and then replace the relay if it's still throwing the code (I say leave the relay to last cuz thats the most expensive component, ~30 bucks so work with what is cheapest first IMO)
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