If you use a press, you'll need a big one. We have a 20 ton press that works great. Conversely, we tried it on a 6 ton once and blew the frame out. Many shops will heat the new bearing up to help get it in, but I think this compromises the seals on the wheel bearing, leading to premature death later on, sooner than it should. Heat speeds up the process, but isn't required to get a new bearing in.

 

Heat the bearing or the spindle? If you heat the bearing that would expand it a little making it harder to get in...

I've done tons of interference bearings on ATVs that "should" require a press. A trick is to freeze the bearings (put them in the freezer once you get them) the bearing will shrink a tiny bit.

Then tap it in using a socket that is the same size as the outer race on the bearing. With this method they usually go quite easily.

I've not done it on the Audi yet, but I plan on trying it without a press when I need to. The right size socket, patience, and a BFH usually does the trick.

Too bad these aren't tapered bearings...

 

Thanks for the tips! I'll hopefully be ordering a pair tonight ($40 for a pair vs. $75 for a single bearing is worth ordering online to me) and I'm thinking once I tear into the assembly I'll get a better Idea of what everyone's talking about. I prefer to do my own maintenance on my cars so thanks again and if there's anything else let me know!

 

Where in MI are you? I'm in Oxford and have done all 4 in mine over the years. I could help if you get stuck.

 

I live in Pleasant lake just outside of Jackson, and the shop is in Michigan center. I think that's quite a distance from oxford, not positive though
I appreciate the offer though

 

Heat does make metal expand but it also makes It more malleable, something to do with molecules moving faster or some crazy scientific **** like that. Anyway, applying heat to a "stuck" part will usually help it come out easier.

 

Yes, heat can help with a seized part, or in the case of a bearing if you heat the carrier it (the carrier) will expand a little so the bearing comes out a little easier...

But heating a bearing to put it in (unless the bearing goes over a shaft, and not in a carrier) I'm not sure is the best idea. I wouldn't want to make my bearings more "malleable", or "bigger" especially if they are interference fit, as these are.

 

Dont forget about the alignment. I did my pass. rear and started to drive after i was all done and my steering wheel was 90 degrees to the left lol...string and good eyes saved me 80$ for the alignment

 

Alright it sounds like there's more to this than I thought?
can anyone just give me a very brief rundown of everything involved with replacing a bearing?