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Codes, Codes, and more Codes...and no boost

Old Aug 20, 2010 | 11:28 PM
  #31  
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Oh yeah, forgot to mention that the ticking noise has gone away since the turbo hasnt been spooling. I dunno if this means, anything but I haven't heard it do it while at idle. It only happens in a short burst when I first start the car. Would a video help?
 
Old Aug 20, 2010 | 11:59 PM
  #32  
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Clear codes and take the valve cover off and unplug the vvt plug on your tensioner. Put the cover back and see what happens. If the solenoid is bad, you may be able to stay out of limp mode (if thats whats really going on..) with it unplugged and see if boost returns-but with no vvt operation. The diode mod will keep you out of limp mode from overboost conditions. Timing and other ignition/emision issues (like a bad maf) can also put you in limp mode.
You can see the plug on this tensioner. The plug faces the firewall.


So it may be the vvt solenoid that is causing the p0011 code, or the tensioner itself. Something is causing inaccurate cam position.

READ the first reply in this link.

This may not be what is causing 0 boost, but it should be a priority. If cam tension is off then you have a cam chain that is slapping the plastic guides, which can shatter and cause the chain to jump and kill valves.
 

Last edited by onepoint8tee; Aug 21, 2010 at 12:45 AM.
Old Aug 21, 2010 | 03:39 AM
  #33  
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Noted...I should get that **** fixed I guess. Tomorrow I am going to pull the vvt plug. I hope that it'll atleast give me a better direction as to what's wrong...I never had any of these problems until I replaced my turbo. It was just too weird to have the turbo not spool at all, work, and then stop again. Grrr.....
 
Old Aug 21, 2010 | 05:02 PM
  #34  
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With the cam code, it points to the solenoid or bad tensioner, but a bad tensioner usually only get louder with rpm increase. Poor oil pressure can definitely cause the tensioner to make noise at start up until pressure builds and oil gets to the tensioner. NONE of this would have much to do with zero boost except for the computer pulling timing and, in turn cutting boost. But like 1.8t said, you should still be seeing a small amount of boost. The fact that boost has been coming and going definitely points to a computer related issue, because mechanical things (such as wastegate) either work or they dont, out of the norm for it to come and go. Have you swapped n75's with someone else to see if its not letting your wastegate close? As 1.8t has said, a big vac leak would usually not even let the engine run, or it would run like complete garbage so I think we can rule that out. Did the car run strong on the old turbo? And i'm assuming you had the diode mod then too? I think your car is getting bad MAF readings and the car is running rich because the ecu thinks its getting boost when its not. Maybe you need to check your diode and the wiring/soldering for that.
 
Old Aug 21, 2010 | 05:25 PM
  #35  
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I have my n75 still plugged in, but I have a vacuum line looped on it. The car ran great with the old turbo. I've had the diode mod pretty much ever since I had the car. It's weird though, I've blown off intercooler pipes before and it would run like crap for a few seconds but then it would run fine, just no boost. I will be checking the diode tomorrow. So do you think that I should still pull the vvt plug?
 
Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:12 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by joenelson7687
I have my n75 still plugged in, but I have a vacuum line looped on it. The car ran great with the old turbo. I've had the diode mod pretty much ever since I had the car. It's weird though, I've blown off intercooler pipes before and it would run like crap for a few seconds but then it would run fine, just no boost. I will be checking the diode tomorrow. So do you think that I should still pull the vvt plug?
Yes, you should still pull the plug. What do you mean, you have vacuum looped into the n75?
 
Old Aug 21, 2010 | 07:19 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by FasterA4ThanUrs
Yes, you should still pull the plug. What do you mean, you have vacuum looped into the n75?
I think he means he has one hose looped between the site ports on the n75... while having the bottom port in the turbo hose and plugged in electronicaly.
 
Old Aug 21, 2010 | 09:26 PM
  #38  
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Yep, well I will pull the plug tomorrow and report back. Nothing really bad can happen with this unplugged can it?
 
Old Aug 22, 2010 | 03:16 PM
  #39  
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Update:
So I unplugged the vvt plug, started the car and nothing new happened. I was still no making any boost at all. I plugged it back in and drove around. While i was coming to a stoplight, my car started to misfire. I have an Ultragauge code reader running and it showed up as a p0301 misfire and my check engine light started blinking. I turned around to head back to my house and it went away. I would clear the codes as I was driving. I kept driving around some more and I would get pending codes of p0301 but it wouldn't throw the check engine light. I would still get misfire when I would slow down to almost a stop; this happened another 2 times. I also got a p0302 code pending only one time, but my car didnt actually misfire. So after driving around for a good hour, I came home and tunned the car off. I turned the car back on and I am still making boost. I don't know what to make of this. I have my plugs gapped correctly at .028 and my coilpacks are the ones audi gave me for the coilpack recall. They don't even have 10k on them. Oh yeah, and I got a pending code of p0011 but it went away and hasnt come back...any thoughts?
 
Old Aug 22, 2010 | 03:17 PM
  #40  
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Just to clarify, I wasn't misfiring all the time...only a few select times and it would just go away.
 

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