Connecting subs, where should I spice in the source?
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1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 105
From: Illinois
Connecting subs, where should I spice in the source?
Right now I have it spliced in to the rear deck speakers after it goes through the car's rear amp. A problem that I have noticed was that when the song gets too bassy, it will cut off. Should I replace the source so it's connected to the rear deck speaker source before the cars rear amp or just connect them to the source for the front doors?
Also, are there any write up's for how to remove the front door panels? I know there's a DIY website but I can't find it. And what exactly are the size for the front non-Bose speakers because I see different sizes in different websites.
Also, are there any write up's for how to remove the front door panels? I know there's a DIY website but I can't find it. And what exactly are the size for the front non-Bose speakers because I see different sizes in different websites.
2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 581
can't help on the splice job, i just ran an amp.
spekers tho
- the door card has 5 screws
- 2 at tyhe top (one to the left one to the right) on the door jam side - hidden when closed
- one in the handle - remove that screw then pull down on the plastic ring
- once thats gone you will see the next two
- unscrew these two and push up on both sides the door panel comes off easy
- for speakers upfront i used 1 inch tweeters and mounted them in stock locations for the drivers i used 4inch - they fill the hole nicely but you will have to custom mount them
spekers tho
- the door card has 5 screws
- 2 at tyhe top (one to the left one to the right) on the door jam side - hidden when closed
- one in the handle - remove that screw then pull down on the plastic ring
- once thats gone you will see the next two
- unscrew these two and push up on both sides the door panel comes off easy
- for speakers upfront i used 1 inch tweeters and mounted them in stock locations for the drivers i used 4inch - they fill the hole nicely but you will have to custom mount them
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 223
From: Victoria, B.C. Canada
You definitely want to tap into the signal pre OEM amp. Here is a DIY I did for someone else.
"As far as adding a sub, I couldn't handle not having one after picking up my A4 at the end of 2009. After much research and looking through the tech article found here http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html, there is an easy way to get line-out to your sub amp and it's right at the driver's side rear speaker. This is taken from the tech article which I have added to and taken out less important info.
First things first. This worked for me but do this at your own risk. I will not be held responsible if you screw something up. If you don't understand something, then ask before you start snipping wires. This installation does not require you to cut any of your car's wiring so please don't. Tapping means stripping a section of insulation off of the wiring leaving the bare copper wire showing at which point you can solder another wire to it and wrap your work with electrician's tape.
These wire colors worked for me but you may want to verify that they are the same before starting by looking at the back of your wiring harness off the stereo. My OEM stereo had a diagram stuck to it with the wiring diagram.
The rear amp is a smallish thing, normally attached to the rear left speaker in the rear deck plate. There is a connector plugged into the side of the speaker when you drop your drivers side rear seat down.
The brackets represent the slots that slid into the male harness end. The side with the outward piece is the piece I chose as the "top".
________[ ]________
(1) (2)
(3)
(4) (5)
(6)
(7) (8)
________[ ]________
1: White- Switch
2: Red-Blue lead to Right speaker
3: Brown-Red lead Right speaker
4: Red-Blue (thicker): 12v
5: Blue-Green Right pre-amp from head unit.
6: Red-Green Left pre-amp from head unit
7: Brown (thicker) Ground
8: 2 Brown-black Grounds for pre-amp leads.
In order to get line out, you just tap into the pre existing wiring using Scotch locks or stripping the wiring insulation and soldering the connection. These instructions will assume you are soldering the connections.
1. Take a set of RCA cables and cut one set of ends off making sure there is enough length to reach the amp.
2. Strip the end exposing about an inch of both the inner core and ground (outer metal sheathing). Do this for both ends then twist the grounds together from the left and right channel.
3. Strip the insulation off of the Blue/Green, Red/Green, and 1 of the Brown/Black wiring from the connector leading to the rear speaker using a razor knife. Do not cut the wires.
4. While you're under there, go ahead and strip the white wire on the connector for the amp's remote turn on.
5. Get a length of small gauge wire for your remote turn on and strip one end.
6. Get your connections ready for soldering by twisting the right RCA's inner core to the Blue/Green wire's stripped section. Then twist the left RCA's inner core to the Red/Green. Then the RCA's twisted ground from the left and right channel to Brown/Black. Finally twist the remote wire to the white wire.
7. Solder and tape up your work.
In order to get power to the amp, I ran a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the trunk. I ran ground to one of the bolts underneath the rear seat."
Doug
"As far as adding a sub, I couldn't handle not having one after picking up my A4 at the end of 2009. After much research and looking through the tech article found here http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html, there is an easy way to get line-out to your sub amp and it's right at the driver's side rear speaker. This is taken from the tech article which I have added to and taken out less important info.
First things first. This worked for me but do this at your own risk. I will not be held responsible if you screw something up. If you don't understand something, then ask before you start snipping wires. This installation does not require you to cut any of your car's wiring so please don't. Tapping means stripping a section of insulation off of the wiring leaving the bare copper wire showing at which point you can solder another wire to it and wrap your work with electrician's tape.
These wire colors worked for me but you may want to verify that they are the same before starting by looking at the back of your wiring harness off the stereo. My OEM stereo had a diagram stuck to it with the wiring diagram.
The rear amp is a smallish thing, normally attached to the rear left speaker in the rear deck plate. There is a connector plugged into the side of the speaker when you drop your drivers side rear seat down.
The brackets represent the slots that slid into the male harness end. The side with the outward piece is the piece I chose as the "top".
________[ ]________
(1) (2)
(3)
(4) (5)
(6)
(7) (8)
________[ ]________
1: White- Switch
2: Red-Blue lead to Right speaker
3: Brown-Red lead Right speaker
4: Red-Blue (thicker): 12v
5: Blue-Green Right pre-amp from head unit.
6: Red-Green Left pre-amp from head unit
7: Brown (thicker) Ground
8: 2 Brown-black Grounds for pre-amp leads.
In order to get line out, you just tap into the pre existing wiring using Scotch locks or stripping the wiring insulation and soldering the connection. These instructions will assume you are soldering the connections.
1. Take a set of RCA cables and cut one set of ends off making sure there is enough length to reach the amp.
2. Strip the end exposing about an inch of both the inner core and ground (outer metal sheathing). Do this for both ends then twist the grounds together from the left and right channel.
3. Strip the insulation off of the Blue/Green, Red/Green, and 1 of the Brown/Black wiring from the connector leading to the rear speaker using a razor knife. Do not cut the wires.
4. While you're under there, go ahead and strip the white wire on the connector for the amp's remote turn on.
5. Get a length of small gauge wire for your remote turn on and strip one end.
6. Get your connections ready for soldering by twisting the right RCA's inner core to the Blue/Green wire's stripped section. Then twist the left RCA's inner core to the Red/Green. Then the RCA's twisted ground from the left and right channel to Brown/Black. Finally twist the remote wire to the white wire.
7. Solder and tape up your work.
In order to get power to the amp, I ran a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the trunk. I ran ground to one of the bolts underneath the rear seat."
Doug
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