so im setup to do my own front and rear rotor and pad replacement. got everything i pretty much need. i decided to not phone a friend because i have idiots for friends who don't even know what bleeding breaks means/ entails. so i decided to get the DIY power bleeder from ecs tuning.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B5_A4-.../Tools/ES3474/
that way i can bleed my breaks on my own and prevent air getting sucked back in my lines.

quick question though, i know the brake seals/lines are real sensitive and when bleeding brakes manually, you're not supposed to press down too hard on the pedal...so vice versa if i pump pressure into my master cylinder via power bleeder, how much pressure is too much pressure? is the brake bleeder not recommended? i just really don't want to rupture any lines.

 

You dont need to bleed them if your only doing rotors and pads

 

so with my master cylinder cap off and as im pushing my pistons in, no air would get in my system? ty for that. for some reason i thought brake bleeds were supposed to be done with brake/ rotor jobs

 

Can't you just compress the piston with a c-clamp?

 

Easily, also you dont need a bleeded or power bleeder just a bottle with some fluid in it, easy to see if there is air. Also, why are you bleeding with a rotor and pad change?

 

The rear brakes won't compress with a clamp, the pistons need to be rotated/screwed in.

You could actually do a semi-brake bleed while doing this job, without expending much effort. As you push the brake piston(s) in there will be some pressure build-up, so you could open the bleeder nipple on the caliper to relieve the pressure (brake fluid will come out). Just make sure to close the nipple just before you finish compressing the piston, to prevent air from leaking into the caliper.

 

ty for the advice, i guess ill hold on changing the brake fluid. for some reason i thought bleeding the brakes was done in conjunction with rotor changes/ brake replacements. oh wells i guess. i am definitely in need of a ATF drain/ replace.