B5 Models Please discuss all 1996 - 2001 B5 A4 topics here...

First Post with some newb questions...

Old Nov 30, 2013 | 08:53 PM
  #1  
ospreyguy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Default First Post with some newb questions...

Hi everyone!

I just got my 1996 A4 2.8 quattro which is in excellent condition, with 96K miles and a near perfect interior. But I have a couple of questions that I can't seem t figure out and hope that you guys can help out.

- I have 2 keys one opens the doors and one starts the ignition. The door one has a button that does nothing (I assume it's a key fob but I really don't know). Is there an actual fob or not? Can I get an aftermarket one if there isn't a factory one?

- The LCD screen is messed up and I need to see how to replace it. I read lots of posts about this but they seem to be all over the place...

- The odometer went black. You can still see it if the sun or a bright light is directly on it. Is this something I can fix? I read one post about a light in the back of the cluster that could cause this but it wasn't detailed and confused me...

- I think the heater core is bad. I am going to try and flush it tomorrow to see if that fixes it but I'm not really hopeful. What does this typically cost to have replaced? In denver it's hard to go without a heater...

I think that's all for now, I appreciate any help very VERY much!
 
Old Nov 30, 2013 | 09:44 PM
  #2  
BaseDrifter's Avatar
Site Moderator/B5 Tech Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,745
From: Bay Area, CA
Default

Welcome.

Your 1996 has the older infrared style central locking system. To my knowledge you cannot switch to the newer style system with a flip key fob.

The cluster center screen can be replaced. You can buy a new one and do it yourself or pay someone ~$100 to have it replaced. It requires board soldering.

Smack the instrument cluster close to the odometer, I bet it comes back alive. I had this problem on my old cluster, a few smacks would bring the screen back. I don't know of a permanent solution for this, the odometer screen is not commonly replaced.

A heater core replacement will probably cost you upwards of a grand to have a shop do it. The entire dash must be pulled out.
 

Last edited by BaseDrifter; Nov 30, 2013 at 10:11 PM.
Old Nov 30, 2013 | 09:52 PM
  #3  
markymarc's Avatar
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 675
From: Des Moines, IA
Default

What leads you to think the heater core is bad? No heat can indicate other things. As BASE said, the heater core is a PITA...I've done it on mine...it took me 10 hours, you have to remove the entire dash, zip ties, etc...
 
Old Dec 1, 2013 | 06:38 AM
  #4  
ImTheDevil's Avatar
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,670
From: Binghamton, NY
Default

IIRC, the button on the key was for an LED in the rubber part so you could see the door lock cylinder. Otherwise, what the guys above said.
 
Old Dec 1, 2013 | 06:56 AM
  #5  
ospreyguy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Default

You guys are great! Well the core is my thought because it did work at idle but after a long trip from Kentucky it won't heat at all. I first thought it was the t-stat and the drive home was just to cold. But I cardboarded the radiator and was at a good temp but still no heat. Especially at Highway speeds.

So I really have to carry 2 keys for this year? That's lame... ;-)
 
Old Dec 1, 2013 | 07:06 AM
  #6  
ImTheDevil's Avatar
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 11,670
From: Binghamton, NY
Default

Try a search for "CLR heater core flush" - using a mix of CLR and scalding water in both directions through the core via the underhood inlet and outlet hoses has fixed it for some people. That may be enough to get your heat functioning. However, if you have heat at idle but not while driving, that usually indicates the thermostat. Heat while driving but not at idle is more indicative of a clogged core.
 
Old Dec 1, 2013 | 07:34 AM
  #7  
ospreyguy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Default

Originally Posted by ImTheDevil
Try a search for "CLR heater core flush" - using a mix of CLR and scalding water in both directions through the core via the underhood inlet and outlet hoses has fixed it for some people. That may be enough to get your heat functioning. However, if you have heat at idle but not while driving, that usually indicates the thermostat. Heat while driving but not at idle is more indicative of a clogged core.
That was my first thought so I guess I was right the first time with the t-stat. I've heard that isn't much easier to change with it being behind the timing belt. Mine was replaced not long ago so its not like I can kill 2 birds and all that...

Anyone have a suggestion on an aftermarket keyless entry that would work?
 

Last edited by ospreyguy; Dec 1, 2013 at 07:39 AM.
Old Dec 1, 2013 | 08:20 AM
  #8  
Clayson's Avatar
1st Gear
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 214
Default

They are two physical keys? Ones not a fob? Post a pic and lemme see.
 
Old Dec 1, 2013 | 08:27 AM
  #9  
ospreyguy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Default

Originally Posted by Clayson
They are two physical keys? Ones not a fob? Post a pic and lemme see.
I will in a bit. Keys are upstairs and the wife is asleep. I think the ignition may have ben replaced and with it a new key...
 
Old Dec 1, 2013 | 08:29 AM
  #10  
ospreyguy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Default

I also did a VIN search and this one isn't listed as having keyless. I will pull the seat up later and see if the module is there but I don't think so. Can I just add the module or is there some other option?
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:34 AM.