This site is awesome,i recommend you guys get your HID gear from this site.

Check out what this guy has done for me:

He sent me 1 pair of 35watt HID Ballasts for free under his 1 year warranty with no hassle,even after both ballasts was shorted out by my car and it wasn't a factory issue.

He is going to send me 1 par of H7 bulbs for free,because i am having trouble with only my passenger side,which is turning white,instead of Aqua blue.

When i turn on the lights and walk in front of the car,both lights are the same color and stay that way only for a few seconds,then the passenger side,turns white for some odd reason.

He told me,that the bulb,determines the color and not the ballast,so it could be the bulb that is the issue and not the ballast on the passenger side?

Both Bulbs say"H7 10K" on them and so they should illuminate the same color,not only that but the passenger side that turns white,will shut off at random times,i have to turn the low beat lights off and on again,for the passenger light,to turn back on.

I am using brand new ballasts,so that isn't the issue,i even inspected the wires,going to the headlight and used electronic tape to cover up bear wire,that was exposed on the driver side but the issue is on the passenger side,so that didn't make a difference.

So as it stands,i have a white tint on my passenger and blue tint on my driver side and the only thing i haven't tried yet,is swapping the passenger bulb out with a different bulb,So i will swap bulbs from one side to the other and see if the bulb,still turns white and turns off at random.

I swapped out the ballasts from one side to the other and the passenger side is still white and still turns off at random.

So this guy who owns the site and company,said he will send me 1 pair of bulbs for free,if it turns out to be the bulb,i can keep them but if the issue is still present with the new bulbs he sends,i have to send them back and buy a Resistor relay kit for the passenger side.



He also suggested that i use a 20 fuse,opposed to the 10 or 15 i may have in there as he thinks it could be a low voltage on that side,that is causing,the car's computer to shut off the light,so it won't cause damage.

Anywho...anyone with any suggestions,other than what he suggests?

I also wanted to give the guy,some prospective customers,since he is going WAY beyond to help me and isn't asking for a dime! I'm sure he'll do the same for any other customer,I'm not special.

 

I would say that 10K is way too high of a color temp. Stick to the 4000K to 5000K range if you want usable light.

As for diagnosing your problem, any aftermarket or rebased bulbs are hit and miss. It could be that the ballast is under or over driving the bulbs, causing the difference in color temp. Switch bulbs/ballasts to see.

At 35W each ballast is only drawing 2.6A. The current will be much higher during the strike, but only for milliseconds. Not enough to blow the fuse. I would suspect the connections at the ballast, rather than the other circuitry. I'm running 55W ballasts just fine with the stock circuitry.

 

I don't think its the connection at the ballast,being they are both new.

I also notice,when the passenger side light,shuts off,i turn off the low beams at the stalk and on again,the light comes on,all the time.

I would think if it was a connection,it wouldn't turn on,every time i turn the lights off and on again.


So you think,10k is too high,for a B5's stock,circuitry?

what if i get a 20 fuse?

 

It's not that 10k is too "high"; visually 10000K seems ricey (IMO) and also anything past about 5000K has a reduction in actual light output. Many people (myself included) would consider 4500-6000K the best option for a clean look and optimum visibility.

The point bshusted made about the amp draw being only 2.6 amps is that your current fuse should not be causing the color shift of your one bulb. I bet it's simply the bulb (I had a similar thing happen with one of mine).

 

So you're saying,the reason the passenger side bulb is white,is because it is bad? what about the light,cutting off at random,times?

So what if i swap the bulbs and the problem,follows the bulb from the driver side?

 

The color temp has nothing to do with the power requirements, although aftermarket bulbs do run much hotter than OEM bulbs (but that's a different story) As MetalMan mentioned, at 10,000K, you are sacrificing a lot of usable light for some blue color. That blue/purple color will actually come from the refraction of the light through the lens at the front of the projector.

If the problem follows the bulb, replace the pair with something in the 4000K - 5000K range. I've had bulbs that don't like to strike as they age causing the problem you describe.

 

I ran 8000k bulbs in my old A4 for about 6 months and then swapped them out. As mentioned above, they were way too blue and produced far less visible light than a lower color temperature. OEM is 4300k, which is supposedly the brightest. I'm running 5000k (or maybe 6000k, I can't remember) and they produce good, usable light while also giving that pure white/slightly tinted color that I like.

 

Agreed on the color temp. I'll still stock with Emil for all my lighting - I've never seen anyone with the customer service he's built his reputation on.

 

Beau, Chris, or Randy with *** joke related to "customer service" in 5...4...3...

 

LOL I was gonna leave it alone but since you offered:

Emil usually services all of his customers...