Really? I thought the lenses were plastic. Or is that just the facelift projector lenses that are plastic? If that is the case, I'll definitely give the steel wool a shot on them; the hazing is definitely on the outside, its so thick I can actually pick at it in places with my fingernail, I think its just been so built up for such a long period of time that the restore kits can't penetrate deep enough to remove it. My buddy has an orbital buffer so if the steel doesn't seem to do any better than the restore kits, I'll try out your suggestion of going at it with some rubbing compound and the buffer and see if that can work some better magic

 

Lol I'm sorry - it's late and you're right, they are plastic. Probably a bad idea to use the steel wool. The buffer can be used on plastic but I'm not sure an orbital can cut it (although it's worth trying). They usually top out around 300rpm and I think I ran the high-speed at 1000-1200rpm but I'll doublecheck to be sure.

 

Okay, sweet, I'll give the orbital a shot just to see how it holds up and if it doesn't seem to be doing very well, I have a pad that is fitted for your average power drill that I'll use and just make sure not to pull the trigger too hard to get it moving beyond a safe speed; as this particular drill doesn't have a speed gauge or setting adjustment, its an electric drill instead of battery so how hard you squeeze the button determines how fast it goes and I think I'll be able to eyeball a rate of less than 1000 rpms.

 

I used a cleaning compound on my windshield after my heatercore flush. Johnson and Johnson baby shampoo. From the guy that tinted my windows, says there is nothing better than that. Especially using on the tint its self

 

I had a similar issue with a Jeep this summer with the heater core crapping out. At a local auto shop I was able to get an aerosol can with a high strength auto glass stripper. Quite a strong Amonia smell but after doing the windshield twice with it, alll residue was gone off the glass.