So I've seen people mention various ways to get to the bottom 4 engine-to-transmission bolts. Vice grips, etc. Well, after doing my clutch, I can tell you: Screw that. You need the following:

1) GearWrench 85266 - Flexible X-Beam Combination Ratcheting Wrench Metric 16mm (or the set, but it MUST be the flex X-beam set. No flex, no good.)

2) GearWrench 85258 - Flexible X-Beam Combination Ratcheting Wrench Metric 8mm (or the set, but it MUST be the flex X-beam set. No flex, no good.)

3) An 8mm allen wrench which you have cut on the short end to about half the length. This will be useful for the one of the shifter bolts. I just took an allen wrench and cut the piece off with an angle grinder but you can use a dremel or hacksaw or whatever.

4) the small "bit" left from cutting the allen wrench, which you will use for two of the bottom bolts since they have both inner and outer hex. Well, it's easier for two of them to use the inner hex, so use this with item #2.

5) (optional) One of those coiled flexible socket extensions. I got a set years ago and the first time I have EVER found it useful was in putting the 6mm starter bolt back in. I couldn't get it started with the universal joint because it wanted to keep changing the angle of the bolt before it caught. You won't get it super tight with this (I actually bent mine a little) but you can use the U-joint to finish it if need by. (You may not need this if you have small hands or good luck or you removed the AC compressor)

Trust me on this. You're welcome.

 

I've separated the engine and trans for one reason or another many times. And speaking from experience, I never once had to do any of that. Unbolting the motor mounts and jacking up the engine frees up a lot of space to get a ratchet with various length extensions and sockets on those bolts. You can even get a box end on 2. I know its tougher when you do just the trans and have the front clip on, but its still do-able. I like pulling the front clip for a lot of things tho anyway. And apparently, those bottom bolts happen to be pointless. Heard of a few guys not runnin them at all with no issue.

 

I jacked it up quite a bit and still had nowhere near enough clearance. I had both my transmission jack and my XL35 on the thing trying to get some height, and I even took the motor mount bolts off in an attempt to let the engine try to raise itself, but it didn't work. Still not even CLOSE to enough clearance. I can't imagine what's different in my car than yours, but I definitely needed the stuff I listed.

 

Did you still have the front mount on? I couldn't see the engine raising much without removing my snub. Plus you have to be very careful of the sensors and hoses, but I don't have to tell you that. When I throw my engine back in again, I'm not putting those bottom bolts in.

 

Pretty sure Mike Hood doesn't run those bottom bolts either and if anyone's car needs them its his lol

 

Yes, because it seemed like a major pain to remove for this job. I got the bolts back in in ~5 minutes with the tools that I listed. Probably could have done it faster.



Even if you don't put them back, they will need to be removed. Those flex handle wrenches are awesome.