Motor removal/Front clip removal
 

Can someone point me in the direction.. Im going to do a motor swap very soon.

That's pretty general lol. Drain coolant and oil. Bumper off, headlights out, take out top bolts by headlights, take off bumper shocks. Remove radiator and boost hoses. Either just slide front clip to the passenger side or take AC lines off. Undo turbo and all accessories and both manifolds. Jack up motor with wood between jack and oil pan to access the bottom 3 bell housing bolts. Pretty much all there is to it.

5 minute job. 10 tops

Wow that does seem pretty easy. Theres only 3 bolts holding tranny to block?

Also can someone point me in the direction of a timing belt how to. Need to know what tools I need and if I can get all the parts at autozone or something?

Check the DIY forum on here, audiworld.com, or audidiy.com. Don't fool yourself. It's not easy. 10 minutes tops? Lol it's at least twice that. You must be cutting corners.

No the 3 bottom ones are tucked in by the sub frame, so you need to jack up the motor to access them. Plus you need to disconnect a few more things than I mentioned lol, but I was just giving you an idea of what to do. It can easily be done in a day tho if you know your way around the car.

Ok thanks..Im not really in a hurry to do it.. I bought a 92 v8 quattro to drive around until its fixed.

My concern is doing the timing belt.

OK I found the write ups..Can I get my timing stuff from autozone or advanced?

Doubtful. Blauparts.com is the place to go for timing belt parts.

You don't have to remove the motor for a TB...

Unless im missing something

OP said something about a motor swap:

I figured the timing belt was just a "while i'm in there" sort of question.

Yup while im in there.

check rai motorsports too for a tbelt kit

I visited RAI on my way north for the NE spring meet, Clint's a good guy.

I got my kit through Blauparts, it was great. Fast shipping, excellent instructions with pictures and it had EVERYTHING!

Hahahahahahaha (DEEP BREATH) aaaaaaaaaaaahahahaha. Sorry. Good coffee today.

Hah..I don't even know how to get the front clip off. I gave up because cod black ops came out.

haha nice same here im about to be single again because of this game its sooo good though!!

Dude I played 12hours strait yesterday. I play alot of sticks and stone.. Im badass with a ballistic knife.

Lol ^

Can someone direct me to the how to for the front clip.

Disconnect your negative battery terminal and move it aside. Pop off lower grills, theres an allen headed bolt on the top of the recess. Its a long one, you'll hate it. Then you take off the bumper by pushing in and down. There are three hooks/claws holding it on, two up top one on the bottom. Its a pain in the ass, just gotta fiddle with it. Then pull the bumper out a bit, and disconnect the headlight washer line, (drivers side) and have a bucket ready. Now you're ready for the bumper shocks. Make sure that battery cable is off, then use your Torx head to undo the 7 or 8 bolts holding the two large black forks sticking out. You'll also need a 10mm socket to get the retaining nut. Move these aside, not which is which side. Next its time to drain the coolant, which can be found at the bottom drivers side of the radiator. Remove the expansion tank cap first. Undo the screw out plug, catch the coolant and prepare it for proper disposal. Protect the environment my friend. Then you can begin to disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses. There's a screw clamp and two metal clips that just need to have the metal wire pulled out to release it. At this point you're ready to remove or at least disconnect the headlights, which are wire spring connections again. Now you should be ready to take off the core support. Its four bolts up top, right next to the fender and on on each side, holding the black core support to the metal fender support. Those last six bolts are all thats left. The only thing holding you back now is the A/C condenser, which is the black bar and fin panel in front of the radiator. No need to remove or disconnect this, as you can swing the entire core support to the passneger side thanks to flexible refrigerant hoses. Viola! There's your engine bay in all it's splendor and you are now in service position. I've got my time down to an hour! You may want to remove the lower intercooler pipe, the metal pipe that runs under the motor to... the intercooler! Again, two screw clamps, then you can check this pipe for excessive oil and or metal shards, which hopefully you dont have. All this information, and much much more is included in a Blauparts timing belt kit instructions. Good luck!

^^ Thanks man I really appreciate it. Im going to take a second shot at during the week or sunday.

For the motor..Do I take the rotors and brakes off to pull the front axles and do I have to remove the allen head bolts on the front axles and drive shaft?

Why are you taking the halfshafts out to pull the motor?

I dont understand what has to be dropped..I unbolted the front part of the drive shaft. Do the axles just pull out?

Are you pulling the trans too? Because none of that needs to come out for just the motor. But the halfshafts bolt in if you are taking them out. There are 6 or 8 bolts with poly, allen, or torx heads on them depending on what audi decided to put in yours lol.

No I didnt want to. Do I have to unbolt the trans mounts either?

No, the only stuff you have to mess with on the trans is the starter and bell housing bolts.

So just pull the starter and undo bell housing bolts pull axles and unhook wiring harness and other stuff and shes ready to come out?.

Do I have to take off the rotors and brakes and remove that center nut to pull the axles?

No, DO NOT PULL YOUR HALFSHAFTS, its unecessary and a waste of time.
After the front clip is off, undo all sensors, hoses, etc at the motor and leave them hanging there (it will be much easier to put everything back together with the new motor).
When you take things apart, replace all bolts in there spots by a few threads so you dont lose them. Get as many bell housing bolts out as possible before jacking up the block. They have hex heads with allen insides to ease removal in tight spots, also helps if you strip anything then you have another option lol. You can leave the head on and even the manifolds if you want. Take the nuts off the motor mounts when you jack it up for the lower bell bolts. Make sure you put some wood inbetween the jack and oil pan when you jack it up. its not too hard once youre in there. Feel free to pm me with any other questions, i'll even give you my number if you need to be talked thru anything, but you should be fine.

Wow so the axles stay in the car?

Sounds like the tranny doesn't need to be removed, and since the half shafts bolt to the tranny, they can stay in.

You're going to make me start killing kittens over here. Do you have ADD or something?

Lol I wish I would've read this before I pulled my engine

I was using this tech article.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng98.shtml

Well that is pretty much a worthless write-up for you since its such a different motor with very different components. You ARE working on a 99 1.8t and NOT an 2.7tt S4 RIGHT? I don't remember ever workin on an S4, but I don't see why the halfshafts would need to come out on that either, maybe they are in the way of something I guess :rolleyes:
Just do like I said and you'll be fine. Not to sound like an asshole, but I doubt your mechanical ability thus far, I find 1.8t A4's very simple. I've worked on cars with MUCH harder setups. But I've also worked in plenty of shops before. Just tear into it and take a good look at everything, it becomes pretty self explanatory.

I am mechanically incline but I second guess myself with the audis. I use to build dsms all the time. I've never really did a motor swap before. Well if the driveshaft and axles dont have to come out then im going to pull the motor today. All that is left is the bell housing bolts and the just wires and hoses to the motor and the motor mounts.

Shoot me your number just incase..

I gotcha. I think your getting confused because awd DSMs have big transfer cases with halfshafts that do just slide out. You're going to find that 1.8ts are far easier than what your used to. Our trans have internal t-cases and with the front clip off, everything is right there with plenty of room to work. I'll pm you my number now.