my failed attempt at independent fog light diy
ok so i was trying this out yesterday. i got the switch out and now i'm basically stuck. idk which wire does what because there are no diy for this kind of switch.
in the first pic is what the pins look like. numbering for that goes top left ot right is 4-6, bottom left to right is 1-3.
in the second pic, the wire and pin number from left to right are, 4 1 2 3 6. 5 is an empty spot. wire color from left ot right is grey/green, grey/blue, red/white, brown, yellow/white
in the third pic is what i did. i looked at the wire diagram from the haynes manual and i'm pretty sure it showed that pin 6 is the power from the headlight switch. pin 6 is yellow/white so i cut it spliced it and wire the other end of my wire with an inline fuse and attached it to the yellow post under the dash. well that didn't work and the fog lights are still dependent.
my question is which wire and i supposed to be cutting and rewiring? i don't want to use trial and error because the wires are rly short and hard to wire back together
[IMG]local://upfiles/36275/92B5CC77951C4D05B2EB0CC92CEC0658.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/36275/53C18C46D9514FDA91FE50FE1786D434.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/36275/A227D3F0667C4299932C4C7B025CC5E0.jpg[/IMG]
in the first pic is what the pins look like. numbering for that goes top left ot right is 4-6, bottom left to right is 1-3.
in the second pic, the wire and pin number from left to right are, 4 1 2 3 6. 5 is an empty spot. wire color from left ot right is grey/green, grey/blue, red/white, brown, yellow/white
in the third pic is what i did. i looked at the wire diagram from the haynes manual and i'm pretty sure it showed that pin 6 is the power from the headlight switch. pin 6 is yellow/white so i cut it spliced it and wire the other end of my wire with an inline fuse and attached it to the yellow post under the dash. well that didn't work and the fog lights are still dependent.
my question is which wire and i supposed to be cutting and rewiring? i don't want to use trial and error because the wires are rly short and hard to wire back together
[IMG]local://upfiles/36275/92B5CC77951C4D05B2EB0CC92CEC0658.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/36275/53C18C46D9514FDA91FE50FE1786D434.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/36275/A227D3F0667C4299932C4C7B025CC5E0.jpg[/IMG]
You need to wire the gray/green to the fuseholder, not the yellow/white wire. I am sure that, knowing Audi, they changed a bunch of sh*t between my model year (99) and yours (01.5), but the wires in question for my car (and listed in my manual, which covers 96-01) show the gray/green wire being the one you need to tap into for independent control. I'd cut that one and run the wire from the yellow power post under the dash, through the fuse holder, up to the green/gray nub on the switch (where you cut the green/gray wire). If you have a handheld digital multimeter, set it for ohms and see if the green/gray wire is shorted from the switch to the foglight fuse. If it is, that's your power source wire (and it should be, according to the manual). Cut it and power the switch using that wire, directly from there to the yellow power post through the fuse. If you don't have a meter, either pick one up at AutoZone (only about $10-12 fr one that'll give you all you need) or give me a call and we'll set up a time later today for you to stop by - I have one in the garage and we can hook it up in a matter of a few minutes (the garage is actually clean now and organized again lol, so we can find the tools!).
Oh, two other things - one, Keith called Scott about five times yesterday and never heard back from him (he does have a family and kids though so he may have been busy with them). Also, when you called back last night we were finishing his car and were both elbows-deep in the engine bay when the phone rang. The outcome - we test drove it last night for a few miles in my neighborhood and all is well. There's a broken or unhooked exhaust hanger somewhere (it's got an exhaust rattle underneath that sounds like the exhaust is hitting a heat shield), and there's a slight underhood rattle when you shift it into reverse, which goes away after a couple seconds (that is probably going to be a pain in the *** to find and fix), but other than that, all it needs is plates and a registration sticker...and a wash/wax
Everything else is done - it drives great, depos are in, HIDs are in and aimed, facelift fogs and air intake are in, and it runs very, very smoothly. All temps and fluids are exactly as they should be, and there are no leaks or squeaks. He's picking up plates this week, but otherwise it's on the road. Before it leaves, we'll do the indie fog mod and dual rear fogs as well and it'll be how he wanted it.
Oh, two other things - one, Keith called Scott about five times yesterday and never heard back from him (he does have a family and kids though so he may have been busy with them). Also, when you called back last night we were finishing his car and were both elbows-deep in the engine bay when the phone rang. The outcome - we test drove it last night for a few miles in my neighborhood and all is well. There's a broken or unhooked exhaust hanger somewhere (it's got an exhaust rattle underneath that sounds like the exhaust is hitting a heat shield), and there's a slight underhood rattle when you shift it into reverse, which goes away after a couple seconds (that is probably going to be a pain in the *** to find and fix), but other than that, all it needs is plates and a registration sticker...and a wash/wax
Everything else is done - it drives great, depos are in, HIDs are in and aimed, facelift fogs and air intake are in, and it runs very, very smoothly. All temps and fluids are exactly as they should be, and there are no leaks or squeaks. He's picking up plates this week, but otherwise it's on the road. Before it leaves, we'll do the indie fog mod and dual rear fogs as well and it'll be how he wanted it.
its not that hard
one wire from each light to ground and the other to a switch which would be from the fuse box and only comes live with the ignition so preventing battery fail which is what happens if you make it live all the time,
http://images.google.co.uk/images?cl...a=N&tab=wi
one wire from each light to ground and the other to a switch which would be from the fuse box and only comes live with the ignition so preventing battery fail which is what happens if you make it live all the time,
http://images.google.co.uk/images?cl...a=N&tab=wi
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Juliet
S Car Model Line
5
Oct 30, 2012 02:53 PM
parlayin
B5 Models
4
Feb 10, 2010 12:33 PM




