wondering if anyone can give me some ideas to the problems I'm having with my 98 a4 2.8q 30v. I had my car stored over the winter, battery died and when I tried to start the car it would idle around 800rpm. When I steped on the acccelarator and rev up to 1200rpm it drops to 800rpm then jumps back to 1200rpm. I took it to a import shop and they said it was the TB and changed it, then the MAF. Mechanic said it was good to go but when I picked it up it lacked power. The mechanic told me it would take some time for the ecu to reset so I drove about 40km and fueled up. When I started the car check engine light came back up. Drove it to the Audi dealer, really had no power at this point. Audi told me that it could be a number of things might cost big $. So I took the car and resolved to fix it myself. Now I have a vag-com and a bentley manual on order. Looking at the vacuum lines last night I noticed that the black hose comeing off the fuel pressure regulator was pinched off by the "cover" over the TB which the vacuum valves are attached. Now I am going to replace all the vacuum lines. Anyone think this could be the route of my problems ? Will post codes once I get the vac lines replaced.

Thanks

 

Oh btw checked the timing and it seems to be off by 20degrees + guessing this is because the ecu is trying to compensate ? Needs a TBA ?

 

Yes vacuum is a big deal and I really doubt that your timing is off that much. I think you'd be bending valves by then.

Fix the vacuum lines, clear any codes and see where you're at. Post any codes that come back. You can try Sea Foam in a vacuum line and cleaning the MAF as well.

Start simple, and start with known issues.

 

Do you mean 20% for fuel trim?

 

Oh, for timing he'd mean ignition timing (duh on my part... too used to people talking about timing belts on this forum) though I doubt it's that much. Do check your timing gear marks. Belts can stretch. But I'd do the simple stuff first.

 

I'd say it depends on when he's seeing the 20+ degrees.... these things vary alot depending on RPM, load, gas used, temp, etc... dont assume.

Second: I would have thought the first thing the shop would do would check the spark plugs/coils/wires in case of mice, then clean the injectors/TB/MAF before just replacing... dunno... just saying.

 

I'd be very worried if a shop wanted to replace my TB. TBs aren't parts that really fail...

 

At idle the timing isnt off much, if the arrow is 12 o-clock and and the scribe line on the flywheel is 11:45. When I rev up to 1200rpm and the idle starts to jump back and fourth, the scribe line on the flywheel sits at about 11 o-clock. My guess is that I need to do a TBA and it will be corrected. My MAF is brand new and sparkaling clean as is my TB. Vac lines were the original and I striped them off. Waiting for the bentley service manual I ordered befor I replace them just to make sure I put everything back as it should be.