oil change
#11
Same here, oil filter is huge. Does everyone jack the car up and go from underneath to get to the filter? Is that the easiest access? I unscrewed the coolant reservoir and was able to access it from the top but I did have most of the pastics off at that time. I've seen the "sludge fix kit" but someone said if I just use full synthetic and the big filter is enough to deal with that problem, do you guys agree?
#12
The method you described is the easiest way to get to the filter on a 1.8T. I've tried both, and removing the filter from below is a great way to spill oil everywhere but thats about it.
The sludge fix you mentioned (sticky) is more for cars where its already too late and the head is beginning to suffer from oil starvation. Granted, it certainly couldn't hurt anything, but i hesitate to call it necessary for everyone.
The sludge fix you mentioned (sticky) is more for cars where its already too late and the head is beginning to suffer from oil starvation. Granted, it certainly couldn't hurt anything, but i hesitate to call it necessary for everyone.
#13
The reason you want to go out and invest in a good jack, and at least two quality jack stands, is safety.
You might be able to barely squeeze underneath the front of the car, but why do that when you can lift the car up on two solid jack stands and be safe? You'll also have more room, and once you do your own oil change, you'll probably decide that you can start doing your own tire rotations, too.
The initial investment in tools is considerable, but over time you'll get your money back.
#14
OP has a 30V like me, I just did an oil change and wouldn't have needed to lift it if my car was at stock height and if my oil filter wrench wasn't a piece of crap. The drain plug is right at the front and I had no problem reaching it and draining, I only had to lift a corner a bit to get the filter out. And the filter comment was for the 30V again, which has a different part number than the 1.8T.
#15
surprised nobody mentioned Motul oil.
changing it yourself isn't hard, but i haven't had a problem with jiffy lube before. there is the obvious upselling (cabin filter for some ungodly amount of money). sucks they didn't use synthetic after requesting CCA4...guess i'm lucky that hasn't happened to me. i'm **** retentive about changes at every 3k. yeah yeah, with syn it can go further, but i don't mind the extra expense. sludge is nobody's friend...
fwiw CCA4 used this jiffy before: 950 North Jackson Street, Arlington, VA was decent. just told em synthetic and don't touch anything else. they obliged but still tried to sell the cabin filter. decline and you're on your way...think it was $65-$70 iirc. painless by me, since i live in an apt downtown.
changing it yourself isn't hard, but i haven't had a problem with jiffy lube before. there is the obvious upselling (cabin filter for some ungodly amount of money). sucks they didn't use synthetic after requesting CCA4...guess i'm lucky that hasn't happened to me. i'm **** retentive about changes at every 3k. yeah yeah, with syn it can go further, but i don't mind the extra expense. sludge is nobody's friend...
fwiw CCA4 used this jiffy before: 950 North Jackson Street, Arlington, VA was decent. just told em synthetic and don't touch anything else. they obliged but still tried to sell the cabin filter. decline and you're on your way...think it was $65-$70 iirc. painless by me, since i live in an apt downtown.
Last edited by 1999A418T; 09-28-2011 at 01:01 PM.
#16
if you want to be really safe and cheap -- it is possible
drive your car up onto a curb (high side opposite drain plug) and change away.
then again i live on a dead end drive
probably shouldnt try that on a busy street
drive your car up onto a curb (high side opposite drain plug) and change away.
then again i live on a dead end drive
probably shouldnt try that on a busy street
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