P0303 and P1300 (only and together)

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Thanks Audiforums, here is my first post:

My 1999 A4 1.8t front wheel drive, manual transmission, has a cylinder 3 misfire; reporting three diagnostic codes, one of which is repeated:



Cylinder 3 misfire detected: P0303 (x1)

Manufacturer control ignition system or misfire: P1300 (x2)


I also checked the other readings on the diagnostic (from advanced auto) and here are some other reads:

Mid $10(?) reads:

DTC that caused freze frame P0303

Engine RPM 930 <<<<<<<<
load value 6.6%

Coolant temp 177*F (i drove the car there)

short term fuel trim 1: 1.5%

long term fuel trim 1: 0.8%

short term fuel trim 3: -100.6%

long term fuel trim 3: -100.6%

Vehicle speed: 7mph (thought i was sitting with only the key turned, not with the ignition on or moving)

Fuel System 1: CLSD

Fuel System 2: N/A


All of the readings for "SINCE DTS CLEARED" eather read 'ok' or 'N/A', which raised no alarms.

These readings were gathered on an Advanced Auto diagnostic tester Actron OBP Auto Scanner CP9175, and read the same "Cyl. 3 mis." as whatever the diagnostic tester BP used immediately after the problem occurred.




I have investigated this thoroughly, however to no avail:

1) Replaced valve gasket cover

2) Purchased Ignition couil which did nothing (but DID work i.e. 'click' when it was used on other cyl. and tested).

Investigating this further I found that:

when i have the engine running:

removing each plug coil would produce a 'clicking' sound EXCEPT cylinder 3, which is located 3rd FROM BUMPER (whther this is cyl. 3 or not i am unsure, as many forums say this and that).

What my next plan of action is is to go in and check the continuity of the wire, which runs from the (im not sure what it's called) plastic box with the umbrella on it.

Because the spark plug wire, running from the umbrella box to the ignition coil clip, and thus through the ignition coil and into the spark plug, does not appear to be conducting, i feel as though this should be a safe approach to the problem (however, I have read that replacing the ECM (or ICM, not sure which it's called) produces more problems for people than they started with, and would like to isolate FOR SURE that it isn't other things first).

So, my question for anyone interested in approaching this with me is: WTF IS GOING ON? I LOVE MY CAR!!!

p.s. the plugs and plug spacing is all good, except the plug in the troubled location is more chocolate than the others due to it not receiving current, and therefore just having gas and oil thrown on it whilst not burning it.

p.p.s. i have not run a pressure check, and would rather not as i baby this car for the most part and it appears fairly obvious that the problem is a result of not receiving current.

p.p.p.s. a fellow i talked to said that if i have the engine run at night, in the DARK, i should be able to see the current escaping the rubber inuslation where the spark plug wire may be broken, because the current wants to go somewhere, and leaps to a nearby metal source. This is my first step, and i will be doing this this evening, so please respond soon! tomorrow, whether what this fellow says works or not, i begin the continuity testing surgery!!!

p.p.p.p.s. if what the fellow in p.p.p.s. says works, i will cheerfully let you know and let you know how repairs go.

Thank you so much,
Clay.

 

Trouble Code: P0303 (1.8L L4 VIN B Std)
Cylinder Number 3 Misfire Detected Print this code data

Number of Trips to Set Code: 2
OBD II Monitor Type: CCM Details
Indicators: MIL Details
Trouble Code Conditions:
Engine running under positive torque conditions, and the ECM detected a misfire or uneven engine function.
Note: If the misfire is severe, the MIL will flash on/off on the 1st trip!
Possible Causes:
 Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or ECM system
 Base engine mechanical problem
 Fuel delivery component problem (i.e., a contaminated, dirty or sticking fuel injector)
 Fuel pump relay defective
 Ignition coil fuses have failed
 Ignition system problem (dirty damaged coil or plug)
 Engine speed (RPM) sensor has failed
 Camshaft position sensors have failed
 Ignition coil is faulty
 Spark plugs are not working properly or are not gapped properly
Cylinder Drop Test
The cylinder drop test is performed when an engine misfire is evident. This test helps determine which cylinder is not contributing the proper power. There are only two safe methods to perform this test on engines using coil packs or individual ignition coils. These two methods are:
 Grounding the high voltage plug wire for the particular cylinder
 Disconnecting the fuel injector connector for the particular cylinder
Because of the location of the spark plugs on V6 and VR6 models, and because of the location of the individual coils on the 1.8L engines, grounding the ignition signal for a particular spark plug is difficult and potentially harmful.
The best and safest method to perform a cylinder drop test is to disconnect the fuel injector connector for the cylinder being checked.
Perform the test on all cylinders to verify which cylinder is suspect.
1. Place the transaxle in P if an automatic, or in Neutral if a manual. Engage the emergency brake, and start the engine and let it idle.
2. Disconnect the fuel injector connector for the cylinder being checked.
3. The engine will sputter, run worse, and possibly nearly stall. If this happens reinstall the connector and move to the next cylinder. If nothing happens, check following to source:
Secondary Spark Test
The best way to perform this procedure is to use a spark tester (available at most automotive parts stores). Three types of spark testers are commonly available. The Neon Bulb type is connected to the spark plug wire and flashes with each ignition pulse. The Air Gap type must be adjusted to the individual spark plug gap specified for the engine. The last type of spark plug tester looks like a spark plug with a grounding clip on the side, but there is no side electrode for the spark to jump to. The last two types of testers allows the user to not only detect the presence of spark, but also the intensity (orange/yellow is weak, blue is strong).
1. Locate and remove the fuel pump fuse.
Removal & Installation of Fuses
Use the provided plastic fuse puller located in the fuse panel to remove fuses. The lid of the fuse panel has a diagram of the fuse locations and amperage ratings for each circuit. The fuse is removed by simply pulling upward on the fuse with the removal tool.
The fuses are easily checked by visual inspection. With the ignition switch OFF, pull the fuse out of the holder. Check the fuse filament. It should be continuous and not broken. If the filament is broken, replace the fuse with one of the same amperage rating.

1. Start the engine and allow it to run until it stalls. It should stall in less than a minute. If it doesn't, make sure the correct fuse has been removed. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): Fuel System (don’t spill gas), Gasoline Fuel Injection System : Disconnect the power to the fuel pump by removing the relay or the fuel pump fuse. Check the list on the fuse box lid to be sure. The fuse should be removed to stop the fuel pump from running. With the engine operating at idle, wait until the engine stalls from fuel starvation. Switch the ignition OFF and remove the negative battery cable. Carefully loosen the fuel line on the control pressure regulator or component to be serviced. Wrap a clean rag around the connection, while loosening, to catch any fuel. After service is complete, discard the fuel soaked rag in the proper manner and reconnect the negative battery cable, relay or fuses., and Chassis Electrical (see above: “Removal & Installation of Fuses”).
2. On V6 and VR6 engines:
3. Disconnect a spark plug wire at the spark plug end.
4. On 1.8L engines, remove the coil pack.
5. Connect the plug wire to the spark tester and ground the tester to an appropriate location on the engine.
6. Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester.
7. If spark exists at the tester, the ignition system is functioning properly.
8. If the spark is weak (yellow or orange, blue is good) or does not exist at the spark plug wire, perform diagnosis of the ignition system using individual component diagnosis procedure.
XXXNEXT (IF NOT THE WIRING)XXX, If the engine runs no differently or the difference is minimal, shut the engine off and inspect the spark plug wire, and spark plug. If no problems are found with the plug wire or spark plug and the ignition system components are determined to be in proper working order, it may be necessary to check the fuel system. Check the following:
4. Fuel injector operation
5. Fuel injector signal from the ECM
6. Fuel injector wiring
7. Fuel injector electrical connector
8. If the ignition and ignition system components are determined to be in proper working order, it may be necessary to check the mechanical condition of the particular cylinder by:
9. Performing a compression test: if compressed air and a leakdown tester are available, perform a leakdown test, following the tool manufacturer's recommendations.
10. Check for a vacuum leak, such as a leaking intake gasket or injector seal.
11. Check for an excessive build-up of carbon on the intake valve. Excessive carbon buildup can absorb the fuel sprayed by the injector, much like a sponge.
12. Make sure to perform the cylinder drop test on all cylinders.
13. If the engine runs no differently on all cylinders, but the engine still lacks power, or the difference is minimal on all cylinders:
14. Check the cam timing.
15. If the cam timing is OK, verify the overall mechanical condition of the engine.
16. Check the fuel system pressure, pressure regulator and fuel pump output.

if anyone wants to be cool, they could tell me how to replace wiring on ECU, but you don't have to (obviously).

I HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE!

 

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW NUMBERING CAREFULLY, AS SOME NUMBERS MAY BE SUB-STEPS TO PREVIOUS MAIN-STEPS!

best of luck.

 

Thank you for your reccomendation, and interest. I went up to my local shop, Foreign Affairs of Duluth, MN, and they also reccomended that with most cylinder misfires (usually cyl. 2 with these models) that the IC be replaced, and that it usually doesn't go much further after that. I bought one and replaced it, now my baby purrs like a pissed off kitten again. JUST make sure all the wiring and wiring insulation is intact, not corroded, and plugged in evenly (as it could also be a wire short of some sort), coils and plugs all good, and the computer isn't f-ed (which it shouldn't be). Also, check your local library for a Chilton manual for your make, model, and year (they just might).

Thank you sir, and ill let you know if i'm in ye ole chicago way.

(THIS IS A COPY FROM ANOTHER FORUM)