parasitic battery drain
#1
parasitic battery drain
hi every one. yep i have a parasite. I can go into more details depending on the answer to my first question. Can a missing drivers door switch cause my B5 S4 to kick out of sleep mode, leading to a drained battery? I have already disconnected the door lamp in the door. TIA
#2
My door switch has a mind of it's own, but it doesn't seem to affect the battery.
My suggestion would be to put a DMM on the battery (with the car off) and start pulling fuses, one by one, until you find the fuse that eliminates the draw. Then you'll know what circuit is causing your drain and you can go from there.
You'll need someone to help (unless you want to run back and forth with each fuse pull), but that should work for you.
G/L
My suggestion would be to put a DMM on the battery (with the car off) and start pulling fuses, one by one, until you find the fuse that eliminates the draw. Then you'll know what circuit is causing your drain and you can go from there.
You'll need someone to help (unless you want to run back and forth with each fuse pull), but that should work for you.
G/L
#3
thanks for the help. I figured I would have to get my meter out, but wanted to rule out everything that might have an effect, that was easy( or as time consuming) to fix. I still ordered an new switch, it was ripped out when i was backing up with my door open. never knew car doors could fold the other way (insert curse word here!). BTW your switch was still connected, right? mine is missing. not sure if that leaves a circuit open or makes a difference.
It seems to be sleep(alarm) related. I locked my car without engaging the alarm last night and she fired right up in the AM. does this give you any other ideas? thanks again!
It seems to be sleep(alarm) related. I locked my car without engaging the alarm last night and she fired right up in the AM. does this give you any other ideas? thanks again!
#4
Somewhat easier than using a DMM and watching the numbers, is to disconnect either the positive or negative battery lead, and using jumper wires, insert an instrument bulb, or other low-wattage bulb between the cable end and battery post. That way you can just glance at the light after each fuse pull, to see if it's still on. If you suspect the alarm module, that should be under the rear seat. Try disconnecting it after you have the test bulb rigged up.
#5
Somewhat easier than using a DMM and watching the numbers, is to disconnect either the positive or negative battery lead, and using jumper wires, insert an instrument bulb, or other low-wattage bulb between the cable end and battery post. That way you can just glance at the light after each fuse pull, to see if it's still on. If you suspect the alarm module, that should be under the rear seat. Try disconnecting it after you have the test bulb rigged up.
#6
thanks for the help. I figured I would have to get my meter out, but wanted to rule out everything that might have an effect, that was easy( or as time consuming) to fix. I still ordered an new switch, it was ripped out when i was backing up with my door open. never knew car doors could fold the other way (insert curse word here!). BTW your switch was still connected, right? mine is missing. not sure if that leaves a circuit open or makes a difference.
It seems to be sleep(alarm) related. I locked my car without engaging the alarm last night and she fired right up in the AM. does this give you any other ideas? thanks again!
It seems to be sleep(alarm) related. I locked my car without engaging the alarm last night and she fired right up in the AM. does this give you any other ideas? thanks again!
(See below for the rest of my answer)
Somewhat easier than using a DMM and watching the numbers, is to disconnect either the positive or negative battery lead, and using jumper wires, insert an instrument bulb, or other low-wattage bulb between the cable end and battery post. That way you can just glance at the light after each fuse pull, to see if it's still on. If you suspect the alarm module, that should be under the rear seat. Try disconnecting it after you have the test bulb rigged up.
If you think the alarm may be draining the battery while it's armed, then you can arm the security system while you (or someone else) is in the back seat. Check the battery to make sure you still have your draw. If you do still have a draw, have the person in the back kill the power to the security system while you watch to see if it instantly kills the draw as well.
That (I believe) would be the quickest way to check the security system.
LMK how it goes.
G/L
#7
^^^ agreed. When the alarm is active it absolutely will have some draw although it should be in the milliamp range. That's expected. What you're concerned with is if it's drawing current with the alarm system deactivated.
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salinas
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12-11-2007 08:09 PM