I should probably stay out of this one because after reading more this timing belt job seems as hard or harder than the DOHC 3000gt engine.

 

If you aren't already, try putting the belt on starting at the crank, up over the water pump, then the cam sprocket, and finally down to the tensioner. Make damn sure it's as tight as possible between crank and water pump, and from pump to cam. Once it's on those teeth tightly and the marks are lined up still, the slack of the belt will be by the tensioner. Apply the tension and movement should be minimal.

 

If mines been 1/2 tooth off on the top it was always advanced. I havent tried it 1/2 tooth retarded yet, at least I dont think I have. Guess I'll get it right eventually. I'm thinking about putting the old belt back on it and sayin **** it. The only reason I did this job was to do the leaking water pump, the belt was just replaced 13,000 miles ago. I just wished this damn belt would work. I already checked both belts, they are both 153 teeth...I'm at a loss and my old lady is gettin pissed at me...

 

Is idling at 400-500 rpms and not letting me rev past 1400 indicitive of incorrect timing? And how do I reset the topend if it's off like that B6 you were talkin about?

 

If the wife is getting mad then show her the problem and tell her to fix it.

 

It won't be off in the way the B6 was because that was timing of one cam relative to the other. I used the example to describe how you can index the cams using their alignment notches and the indicating arrows cast into the cam caps. There's no reason your cams wouldn't be timed right relative to each other. You can use those notches to properly set the cams in the position for fitting the timing belt.

 

Ok so you say theres no way my cams wouldn't be timed relative to eachother, but when I look at my cam marks next to those arrows under the valve cover, with the right side cam (looking from the front of the motor) exactly centered on the recess on the cam with the arrow, the left side cam is just barely inside it's notch on the cam. Nowhere near centered like the right side. Man I though somthing like timing thats supposed to be static, shouldnt be this difficult. Shoot my old honda at least had a couple holes in one of the cam journals allowing you to stick an allen thraight through the cam locking it in TDC. I'll get back after it tomorrow, but theres just too many variables. No matter how tight I stretch that belt, It always wants to line up peak to peak rather than valley to valley. Period. Weird thing about that is, the old timing belt is doing the same ****...peak to peak. Somethings gotta be off in the top end I would think.

 

So here's where I'm at...marks on the camshafts and marks on the crankshaft pulley....someone tell me to put it back together...LOL




Disregard the black marker on the crank pulley, thats where I was off previously.

 

Looks perfect man.

 

Well its running...I think the timing money. I think I have a seperate issue here. CEL, idling rough, and If you peg the throttle, it'll let you rev it up and down, but if you let up slightly, it wont let you rerev until it almost stalls. Then you can rev it again. If you gently ease into the throttle, it cuts out at 1400 everytime then almost stalls again. One problem I was having before I started this t-belt was, when you fill up the tank, it was rough to start. Had to give it a little gas. But it never acted like it is now. Although now if I dont give it any gas, it wont start. And of course the gas tank is full. Figures.