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Question about removing front bumper and 1pc/ 2pc headlights

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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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rawdney88's Avatar
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Default Question about removing front bumper and 1pc/ 2pc headlights

So i'm midway through my summer MODs and i am about to replace my headlights.

I was wondering if anyone who has done a pre-facelift to facelift headlight conversion, that when removing the bumper if i had to unplug the headlight washer fluid? ive seen plenty of DIY's and they do not specify to do this but i had someone PM that i should.

plus, i was wondering if i could actually do a fender trim and a 2pc to 1pc headlight conversion without removing the bumper? i know it is risky but i have a dremel and im patient.

other than that. thanks.
 
Old Jun 23, 2010 | 11:02 PM
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You do not need to remove the bumper to cut away the bumper, just tape it up good. To take the bumper off, you need to drain the washer fluid and remove the headlight washers. (its pretty self explanatory when you look at it, but check audidiy and audiworld for a writeup). After I did mine the first time, I remove them, glued the caps on the bumper and blocked off the hose that goes to them. Makes it much quicker if you need to take the bumper off again.
 
Old Jun 24, 2010 | 07:04 AM
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I opted not to disconnect the headlight washers when i did my 2-piece/1-piece swap, i just propped the bumper up on some stuff so as not to pull on the fluid lines too much. Dallas is right, you don't necessarily need to remove the bumper to trim the fender, but AFAIK you can't get the headlights out unless you remove the bumper. (Devil and I had a lengthy conversation about this and the differences between 97 and 98 in some thread somewhere, I'll see if I can find it)
 
Old Jun 24, 2010 | 09:42 AM
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On my 99, there are only 3 bolts for the headlights - two up top and one below the corner lamp. Bumper does not need to come off. Some early A4s had a fourth bolt below the inboard lower corner of the lamp which couldn't be reached with the bumper on. I'm pretty sure that went away in 98.

And to pull the bumper there is no need to drain the washer fluid - just disconnect the headlight sprayer feed line and zip-tie it vertically to part of the framework inside the engine bay.
 
Old Jun 24, 2010 | 01:23 PM
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That was it, I had the 4th bolt and you didn't. Stupid bolt.
 
Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:59 AM
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but ill try and see if i can get the headlight out with just removing the 3 bolts. I PRAY THERE IS NO 4th BOLT!!! i do have a 98.5 so i hope i have 3 bolt

as for doing wiring modifications, ecstuning has a wiring harness that is like 40-50 dollars that will help make the wiring modifications as plug-n-play as possible...anyone have any experience or thoughts on this? im guessing i will have to do some splicing but the wires already come pre-labeled.
 
Old Jun 25, 2010 | 12:10 PM
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My thoughts on that? Screw buying harnesses. Just remove the harnesses from your existing lights and use them in the new ones. It's free, it's easy, and it requires no mods or shipping of parts
 
Old Jun 26, 2010 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ImTheDevil
My thoughts on that? Screw buying harnesses. Just remove the harnesses from your existing lights and use them in the new ones. It's free, it's easy, and it requires no mods or shipping of parts
so i should just get a voltometer and link up the wires properly from the old to new harness? or is there an easier way. ecstuning has the product on there like it is necessary to install them. even under the depo chrome housings im getting it says that i need the harness.

thank you devil
 
Old Jun 26, 2010 | 12:37 PM
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Buy the harness. I did. It's simple and I believe you do actually need it because the plugs are different from the stock headlights to the new ones.

I have a '96 and I only had 3 bolts, I spent at least 2 hours trying to remove the front bumper. I don't even want to tell you that it took me 3 days to do this conversion, but it did. Hahahahahaha.
 
Old Jun 26, 2010 | 01:02 PM
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Yes the plugs are different but the ones in your existing lights can be reused. Just twist the connector to unlock it and it'll come right out. Install it in the new housings and it's plug and play. Worked fine for quite a few of us.
 



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