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Replaced rear wheel bearing but still noise.

Old Oct 18, 2009 | 07:05 PM
  #1  
fromerich's Avatar
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Default Replaced rear wheel bearing but still noise.

I just replaced both rear wheel bearings on my B5 front-wheel-drive, I also replaced the rotors & pads. After a few miles of driving the bearing noise I had before returned.
Before the change my left rear was noisy and now I can't tell if it's either left or right, but it is the rear.
I just wondering what could have gone wrong?
I have not done wheel bearings before but have some basic mechanical experience with previous cars.
Thanks
 
Old Oct 18, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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Did they come prepacked with grease or did you pack them?
 
Old Oct 18, 2009 | 11:29 PM
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Yeah. since your car is FWD you gotta pack those babies with grease before you install them. Assuming you did that you should check to make sure something on the brakes is not rubbing.
 
Old Oct 19, 2009 | 12:39 AM
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Yes I pack them well-- I thought.
Just wondering if I also needed to pack more grease around the bearing?
Like between the seal & bearing, and between bearings... Just guessing.

I suppose if something was rubbing on the brakes, it would show on the disks, or
the sound would change when brakes applied -- but unfortunately it doesn't seem
to be that easy..
 
Old Oct 19, 2009 | 10:56 AM
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check your cv boots off your axles for any hints of leaks. could be your axles running dry maybe. i have the same problem, all wheel bearings replaced but still have this ever so slight humming at the rear. i noticed i had a ripped cv boot. still havnt gotten around to replace it yet.
 
Old Oct 19, 2009 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by fromerich
Yes I pack them well-- I thought.
Just wondering if I also needed to pack more grease around the bearing?
Like between the seal & bearing, and between bearings... Just guessing.

I suppose if something was rubbing on the brakes, it would show on the disks, or
the sound would change when brakes applied -- but unfortunately it doesn't seem
to be that easy..
No, if you packed the bearings adequately that should be enough to do the job.
how did you tighten the spindle nut down? On older cars I have had I always tighten it down to spec. Then loosen it back up. Then tighten to spec again while spinning the wheel/hub, and then turn it back just enough to get the cotter pin in the next closest slot.
I dont know what the procedure listed for your car is though. just a thought might want to make sure they are tightened correctly, but not too tight.
 
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