We got the old axle out and are having a hard time getting the new one in. Will it be necessary to disconnect the upper control arms? We're hoping to do it without disconnecting them as the pinch bolt is not budging.

 

Just did one. Everyone raves about not having to remove CA. I got it out fine without it. Couldnt get axle into hub splines. Took off CA for more room. Got it in. Pb blaster is your friend. Make sure you have the right axle too. First one i got from advanced was for a fwd not a quattro since theyre retarded.

 

I was able to turn my wheel to full lock towards the opposite direction of the axle I was replacing and got it out with no problem. I did have to remove the shield around the inner cv that bolts to the trans. I was then able to lift the inner cv up and pull the outer out of the hub. The old one went in in the same manner without much problem.

If you have to tackle the pich bolt I would recommend having loads of heat and penetrant on hand. Mine were relatively easy when I did my upper ca's, but man have I heard horror stories....

Good luck

 

If you have to remove the pinch bolt, I'd also recommend having a new pinch bolt on hand. With what it takes to remove one, they're rarely reusable.

 

Just replaced all four CV axles on my 98.5 (and the driveshaft). Some notes:

Rears
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I disconnected each wheel bearing knuckle in three places and then the axles popped right out. Marking the eccentric washer on the lower part of each knuckle will ensure the car is still in alignment after the procedure.

You need an 8mm triple square driver. Also, my aftermarket rear axles use a 24mm axle bolt instead of the OEM hex bolt.

My GSP-brand Advance Auto Parts axles have substantially larger outer boots than the OEM axles. If you use GSP/ToughOne axles and your car has the wide plastic rear swaybar uplinks, you will need to upgrade to the thinner metal uplinks or the plastic will rub against the boots and eventually tear them.

Fronts
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The axles are different sizes for driver side and passenger side. The driver side came out with a little fiddling around with the steering wheel. The passenger side was a different story. With the steering wheel cranked all the way left, I got the outer cv 90% out of the knuckle. I ended up using a pry bar to gently persuade the cv to release the rest of the way from the knuckle.

You need a 10mm triple square driver for the fronts. My aftermarket front axles use a 27mm axle bolt instead of the OEM hex bolt.

 

when i did the rear, i put the car on jack stands, then using a jack and board, jacked up each rear tire. made it VERY easy to take the axles out.
for the front, i just turned the wheel all the way and it came out.

 

I used the same method to replace the outer CV joints on both my front axles.