Whoever last installed the fill plug to my rear differential must have used some crazy retard strength, because this thing does not want to come off. To make matters worse, I did the one thing I was trying so hard to avoid doing. I stripped the head with the allen key that seemed to fit just fine.

So my question now is how do extract this stuck and stripped plug? I obviously want to avoid replacing my entire rear diff. I'm willing to do some drilling and utilizing an Easy Out if that's the only way, but I'm not sure I'll have the clearance for that.

 

Is there enough to grab it with a pipe wrench or vise-grips? Obviously, you need a new plug.

 

Hahaha, not sure yet. All four tires were sitting on the ground when I did it, so I was just feeling around blindly. Bad idea, I know.

 

Bad! Bad dog!

 

it should be a 17mm allen i think. soak it in penetrating oil for a while. theres no way your going to get a wrench on the outside of it, it should be flush with the housing. worse comes to worst you will have to drill a hole in the center and thread something in there like an easyout and do it that way.

hopefully you didnt pull the drain plug before this? hah

 

I second the drill it out, though you may want to be careful if using a cordless drill. They tend to burn out under heavy loads.

 

I know it's been a long time, but I just got the thing out today. Multiple applications of PB Blaster and some heat did the trick. Had to hammer the allen key into it then work it back and forth for a while, then it finally broke loose.

 

yeah breaker bar helps, also make sure that the allen is stripped or the plug, as long as you use a 10mm allen you might still be able to get it off. but a big definetly on the breaker bar, i broke many ratchets before i i finally used a breaker bar and poped it off.

 

haha i was gonna suggest a reverse drill bit, same thing as a male easy out. i suggest putting in a hex bolt on where you can put a socket on it instead. the dealership knows the exact specs of the thread, pitch and length of the threaded part. if the torque spec is low, you only need like a 13mm head on it. if it's got a torque a rating like 60+ i suggest going with at least 15mm head. also make sure it's a bolt made for a car, not building a deck or something. usually NAPA has these odd and end bolts. it's what i did for my rear caliper carriers

 

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334876 could be a lot more damage look though both pages pics everywhere