twisted cam chain tensioner?
anybody have this problem? i heard a noise the other day like a tick from the cam chain tensioner after a oil change that i did yesterday, then night time it cooled down and i heard it, once it warms up you cant hear it, i put mobil1 5w20 in and realized i had the wrong oil, so today bought mobil1 0w40 502.00 and 505.00 approved and changed it, black as hell btw, so i took my valve cover off the day i heard the tick, and seen that my top roller for the CCT was turned clockwise at the 4 and 10 positions. i didn't touch it, and put everything back together, no more tick, but i can hear the chain spinning on the roller, i wish i took a picture but i forgot :\ had to get the car ready for work tomorrow, lol #dailydriver
That's some real John Wayne stuff to put it back together and drive it around like that. You are most likely experiencing cam chain tensioner failure and will eventually fail / break at the worst possible time. Hopefully the plastic shoulder piece does not break / fragment and really foul things up for you.
I would seriously consider getting this fixed ASAP.
I would seriously consider getting this fixed ASAP.
My bottom plastic shoulder broke on my cam chain tensioner. I couldn't figure out what happened to it. There were no pieces to be found around the camshafts. A few months later I replaced my oil pan and found all of the pieces either stuck to the screen on the oil pump or directly below it.
Switching to 5w30 synthetic might help. Mine sounded like a diesel until I switched, though I've got an AHA 2.8.
Also, if you get a kit to replace the tensioner plastic guides, don't overtighten the cheap tensioner tool that comes in the kit-- it will break and then you are kinda screwed.
Also, if you get a kit to replace the tensioner plastic guides, don't overtighten the cheap tensioner tool that comes in the kit-- it will break and then you are kinda screwed.
Last edited by redmond1501; May 22, 2013 at 11:26 AM.
Which motor? For the 2.8 AHA you could probably do the top cam chain guide (I believe this is what we're talking about) without the tool, but you have to remove the CCT to get at the bottom guide. The tool enables you to compress the CCT and insert it back into the motor.
During a timing belt, VCG, etc etc job, I broke the tool after doing cylinder bank 1 and had to do bank 2 by pressing down with one hand and aligning everything with the other hand. Wasted an hour doing that. Huge pain in the ****.
Blauparts has some good VCG "enhanced kits" that come with the tool and you can find them on eBay also for $9.
During a timing belt, VCG, etc etc job, I broke the tool after doing cylinder bank 1 and had to do bank 2 by pressing down with one hand and aligning everything with the other hand. Wasted an hour doing that. Huge pain in the ****.
Blauparts has some good VCG "enhanced kits" that come with the tool and you can find them on eBay also for $9.
Last edited by redmond1501; May 22, 2013 at 12:47 PM.
Atw motor, i ordered the whole cct from audi for 260$ im not just changing the guides, and theres a ertefa meet tommorow night so im trying to get it done before then, if i had a extra set of hands to push top guide down while i remove the cct should be ok no?
please confirm suspicions of the CCT, log of my BTDC graphed picture below, it spikes and drops, i do have a flash of unitronic stage 1, ngk brk7e i think plugs, gapped to flashed size, forget what it is .028mm i think, less the a year old coilpacks from audi, compression was a 180-200psi threw out all four, only run 91oct, and do fuel system cleaner once or twice a month, and crankcase 5 min flush after every 5000 kms
>>>>>><<<<<<
horizontal numbers are timestamps, and vertical numbers are whats goin on lol
>>>>>><<<<<<
horizontal numbers are timestamps, and vertical numbers are whats goin on lol
Last edited by moneyfresh; May 22, 2013 at 09:39 PM.
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