Any luck getting it fired up?

 

No luck, it still has no compression so it looks like there is a problem with the head. Got everything taken off, front clip, intake manifold etc, Im just waiting on a new plolydrive I had to order since I lost mine, then Im taking my head to this guy I know who rebuilds audi/vw engines for a living and he said if I have a few bent valves, which Im guessing is the case, he will fix them for about 100-200 dollars.

 

Good luck -- let us know how it turns out.

 

Thanks redmond, Ill post back when I have some progress.

 

If your timing marks on the chain are correct, i would make sure the timing belt was in time as well. If everything is try compression checking it. If you still have no compression then i would pull the head off and look at the valves.

 

Just thought of another thing, if you loosened the cam adjuster to replace the seal and gasket if you forgot to tighten the 4 T30's and tried to start it you would experience the problem you are having now. Which would be bent valves.

 

Just curious as what you had to do to correct this problem. I ran into the same exact issue after my driver's side cam chain tensioner's shoe pad broke off.

I did everything that you have described in this thread and ended up with "0" compression as well in cylinders 4, 5, and 6. The only difference is that my car actually started after switching batteries with my other car and flooring the gas pedal. It shook violently at idle, but ran smoother as I gave it a little more gas.

I checked for codes right after and got the following:

16684 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
16687 Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected
16688 Cylinder 4: Misfire Detected
16689 Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected
16690 Cylinder 6: Misfire Detected

Unlike yours, I couldn't line up my camshaft gear notches to the chainlink rolls. Instead, they kept on aligning themselves to the "valleys" between. Also, I only counted 15 chainlink rolls between the camshaft gears on the driver's side and 16 chainlink rolls on the passenger's side. FYI, the passenger's side camshaft gear notches line up perfectly to the chainlink rolls.

I'm about to disassemble my intake manifold to have a look into the driver's side cylinder head valves. I'm afraid that I may have bent some valves.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/targuevara/7220842828/http://www.flickr.com/photos/targuevara/7220842828/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/targuevara/, on Flickr

 

Here's a thread from Audiworld that I've been following as well since his "no compression on one bank" is so similar to mine. His cylinder head ended up with (6) bent exhaust valves.

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2826891

 

I got my head back from having the valves in the head replaced. The guy who did it for me didn't put the cams in. So I put the cams in the way they seem to sit the best. The marks on the cams were a little to the left of the arrows on the cam caps when I put the cams on after the valves were put on. I would think you should line up the cam marks to TDC so they are lined up with the arrows on the caps but the cams didn't seem to fit right when they were like that. When I rotated the head by the cam gear the marks on the cams line up perfectly with the arrows on the caps when the mark on the cam gear is lined up with the valves cover. When I rotated it by hand it had some hesitation about every half turn of the cam shaft. I like every half turn of the cam gear is would stop and then go easy for half turn then stop...Is this normal? Here are some pics of how the cams lined up right after I put them on after having the valves put in. Let me know what you think. I want to be sure before I start it so I don't **** anything up again. And ignore the broken *** cam tensioner tool in the pics.
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On my 2.8 at least the resistance is pretty consistent over the course of two manual rotations of the crank. Then again, the motor had 150k on it when I did the cam seals.