Hey gang. long story short my Wrangler was stolen last year and I've finally saved up to buy a new vehicle (Current budget for car = $4,500). Research has lead me to a local 2003 A4 Quattro.

Before I breakdown what we're looking at, I guess my main question is this:

If the vehicle is mechanically sound, are the appearance and potential rust issues a deal breaker?

2003 A4 Quattro 3.0 V6 - 6-Speed manual - 156,xxx Miles

Maintenance:
128K - valve cover gaskets, spark plugs and coil packs. All genuine Audi parts.
144K - crank shaft position sensor.
150K - brand new OEM battery.
152K - Timing belt, water pump, tensioner, coolant flush

I personally saw all the receipts done by Importmasters in KC. The seller is a tech at a Chevrolet dealer himself. The car feels and sounds really good. Engine bay is immaculately clean. Clutch feels tight, revs great, each gear climbs nicely. No warning indicators on the dash, or 'check engine' markers illuminated. All wheels with minimal wear, and wear appears evenly across all tires.

A few red flags:
-Rust (solid sounding when knocked) on rear passenger wheel arch.

-Rust on rear back glass, in a half-dollar sized spot. Couldn't tell if it was rusted through. No indication of leak on backseat/headrest area

-Rust on the under-side pinch welds. Sounds solid, but lots of flaking. Where the rocker and the floorboard meet? Not sure how else to describe. Visible under the car, while on 4 wheels.

- 3x3" "cloudy" area on the hood. I would like to see this buffed/waxed first...

-There's an "Sline" badge under the A4 badge. The steering wheel is stock, and the door sills are just the regular plastic. There is a 'duck bill' spoiler present. What other indications would give away this vehicle as a 'Ultrasport'
Did a previous owner glue on the "Sline" badge?

Price he's asking is $4,200. I also have the VIN and can confirm it's a Quattro at least.

What else should I look for? Should I pass on the rust?

Thanks!

 

You're missing some useful information: engine type, mileage, etc. Also I don't know where "KC" is unless you mean Kansas City. If a 1.8T, does it boost up right away, or if a 2.8, any coolant leaks behind the engine? A/C and heater work well? How about front suspension- there are plenty of ball joints and bushings that can get loose, although changing them isn't all that hard and complete kits are easily available.

 

Oye, that's my bogey. Let me update the thread:

2003 A4 Quattro 3.0 V6 - 6-Speed manual - 156,xxx Miles

I looked up and into the engine bay with the hood up. Nothing was particularly messy. No splatters of oil. Coil connectors looked new, intact. Red coolant contained to reservoir, no splatters or drips from topside view.

I drove it for a good 20 minutes around town and on the interstate. Each gear I took considerably deep to test out the 6 speed ratio. That fifth gear is incredibly fun and responsive 70+ MPH. Slotted into gear 6 just to test, nothing abnormal about the clutch feel or gear exchange. AC was cold, Heat was hot. Tested on both sides of cabin. The vehicle drove straight, even at speed. Steering was tight, I did not experience under/over steer on the shorter slow looping turns.


I am likely going to schedule an appointment at Importmasters (trusted Audi wrench in KC.) KC = Kansas City. I would like to see underneath the vehicle. How must rust is too much rust? I should also schedule a time with the body work guys...

 

FWIW, I bought exact same vehicle for my daughter in 2008 with 70k miles, now at 136k. It has been a reliable car. We had the catalytic converter replaced under warranty at 79k (I'm not convinced they were really bad when we brought the car in under a coil pack recall - cp's were fine but they found an issue with the cats). Other than a battery, we replaced front wheel bearings and all shocks in the past year. I consider these maintenance items due to the mileage. I also had the coolant, tranny, and differential fluids replaced a couple years ago before she took it from MI to FL. There has been some minor rust issues along the plastic molding that runs on the bottom of the doors, and I think a recent issue with rust near a wheel well. I suspect this is unavoidable in a MI car (or KC) driven in the salty winters for 14 years. Having said all that, the price is a little high, but if everything else checks out you are getting a nice car that sounds like it was well maintained.


I talked to a local body shop about the door rust and basically there was nothing they could guarantee. Once it starts, it can only be slowed but you cannot reverse it.